Thursday, April 29, 2010

Kyoto

I went on my first real trip outside of Tokyo last weekend to Kyoto. I stayed there for three nights and four days, sleeping at one of Japan's nicest hostels called K's hostel. To get there I took an overnight bus, and found the 8 hour ride brutal. My trip was off to a rather interesting start from the time I was on my way to the bus station. I made the mistake of asking an old man for directions, he was extremely nice and decided to walk me there, holding his umbrella over me the entire way. I left early to make sure I wouldn't miss my bus since it was the last one, and I anticipated getting lost along the way. When we finally arrived at the station, the man noticed that I had left myself an hour to spare. He didn't speak any english, but motioned for me to follow him. He took me back into the station in front of a resaurant and pointed at the menu posted outside, offering me anything I wanted to eat before leaving. With nothing better to do, I decided to sit with the nice man and he treated me to dinner. We sat together trying our best to make conversation, using a pen and paper to scribble down diagrams in order to communicate. After dinner he gave me some snacks to take with me on the train, then walked me back down to the waiting room to sit for just a few minutes before I would catch my bus to Kyoto. It was an odd experience, since this is something that would never happen to me where I am from, but adventure and trying new things is exactly what I am here for. He didn't seem to be much of a threat (he looked to be at least 70), and he was kind enough to get me to the bus station; though I didn't really understand it, I figured there was no problem with it. It was by this event that I suddenly knew I was bound for an interesting trip.

My bus arrived around 7:30am. The ride itself was awful, I sat upright and didn't catch a wink of sleep. When I got to the hostel, I dropped off my bags and head out to do some sight seeing. With only 4 days in this beautiful part of Japan, I didn't want a wasted minute to slip by - I was on a mission. With my map in hand, I managed to get to a grand total of nine temples and two shrines, one musem, The Path of Philosophy in the Higashiyama district of Kyoto. The first temple I went to was Ginkaku-ji temple, also known as the 'silver pavillion'. The temple and surrounding gardens were breathtaking. While I was there some cute young Japanese girls asked to have a picture with me...then their teacher wanted his own. I found it flattering; who would have thought being a foreigner would bring such celebrity status?
I stopped on my way out to buy some Buddhist charms said to bring good luck. Different charms bring luck for different things, I purchased myself the charm for happiness - can't go wrong with that one.

Then I was on my way to the next temple. Most temples close around 4pm, so I made it to all nine temples before then, and felt a strong sense of accomplishment (and sheer exhaustion) afterward. I noticed that visiting temples can get costly since most tend to have an admission fee of around 500 yen - after seeing (and paying for admission to) so many temples, I was done with them for a while. I found some to be more extravagent than others, but they were all beautiful.
The temples that really stuck out to me on the first day were Ginkaku-ji, and Chion-in temple.
I also made a point of walking by the Path of Philosophy, I feel as though I may have had a different appreciation for this famous path as a philosophy major. The 2km long stone path follows a canal and is decorated with colourful cherry trees, this tranquil area is definitely most suitable for philosophizing. Apparently this path was a favourite spot of one of Japan's most famous philosophers, Nishida Kitaro, who would walk it daily while meditating on his way to Kyoto University.

After stopping by a few more temples, I thought I would check out a museum recommended by my trusty Kyoto tour guide. Nomura museum is a small museum with a collection of various old works of art, according to my guide it contains "exquisite hanging scrolls and ceramics". Well, I was less than impressed. The language barrier was an issue, as I didn't understand any of the descriptions of the displayed pieces, and though I tried hard to appreciate them - they just looked like old dishes and chinese characters painted on paper. Maybe it was the fact that little bowls and paper don't seem as impressive after having visited so many stunning temples. I can't say I would recommend this museum as a primary stop for any tourist.

When I saw just about all I could see in Higashiyama, I decided to head over to Gion, the district of Kyoto known as the 'geisha district'. Here I checked out the Yasaka Shrine and strolled by the old style Japanese tea houses (ochaya) and little old fashioned town houses (machiya), with the hanging lanterns that light up in the evening are what really give Gion it's unique feel. Definitely a key place for tourists! I loved it.

Knowing this to be the 'geisha district', I was hoping to walk by some geishas - after 15 minutes or so, I grew impatient and asked someone where to find some geishas. He guided me through the little streets of Gion determined to find me a geisha to feast my tourist eyes on. He ended up leading me to a theater in Gion where there would be a Miyako Ordori. This is a traditional performance that takes place during the cherry blossom season (throughout the month of April) where Maikos (training to become geishas) entertain with a traditional performance of Japanese music, singing, and dancing. In all of my excitement I sprung for the first class seats, this meant I got to partake in a traditional tea ceremony hosted/served by Maikos before the show. I took my seat, and devoured my daifuku (a delicious dessert) and matcha (frothy green tea) while taking as many pictures as I could - they were absolutely stunning. I am now convinced that a tea ceremony - can in fact be - an art. This is a very important tradition in Japanese culture, and I am so glad that I got the chance to be a part of it. The show itself was a fabulous experience, the perfected synchronized movements of the Maikos left me speechless. After a long day of site seeing, I met up with two girls from my residence who coincedentally were in Kyoto for the weekend and staying at the same hostel as me. We grabbed some dinner, shopped around in Gion a bit, and then head back to the hostel to plan our next day and sleep.

The next day we went to Fushimi Inari to see the Sembon Torii (shrine gates). These gates are featured in a scene of the movie 'Memoirs of a Geisha'. The thousands of bright orange gates all lined up together to form a tunnel is really something. On the way out, I bought a little hand carved Buddha charm to wear on a necklace.
After walking around the Sembon Torii, we hopped on a train to Nijo Castle. The castle is 275 000 square meters of beautiful gardens with ponds, cherry blossoms and plum trees, Ninomaru Palace and Honmaru Palace. I was particularly fascinated by the nightingale floors that were built to squeak as you walk on them to protect the occupants from assassins or sneak attacks.
After the Nijo Castle we got on another train bound for Kinkakuji Temple (aka 'The Golden Temple). This temple is simply magnificent. We walked around to admire it for a while, before stopping by a little booth to purchase some more charms; this time I bought a charm for luck in 'studies', and one for a 'good match'. I've really stocked up - things should be looking up (though at this point I'm not sure how they could possibly get any better). When we finished hanging around Kinkakuji Temple, we decided to go back to Gion (one of our favourite areas), we shopped around a bit before getting dinner at a 300 year old restaurant in Gion, famous for its Soba noodles - I had a soup dish with Soba noodles and egg. After yet another long day, we head back to the hostel to crash.

On Sunday we went to check out an area called Arashiyama. Since the tour guides we had didn't mention too much about this area we didn't really know what to expect, but it turned out to be one of my favourite areas in Kyoto. On a little map we had picked up from the hostel, we noticed a little monkey image in this area, the monkey symbol wasn't referred to in the legend, but after looking into it some more we discovered that there is a Monkey Park. Monkeys?! real monkeys?! in a park!? This was something we had to see! We made it there without too much hassle, paid admission, and started our way up the trail to the Monkey Park; the trail took us on a strenuous hike up a mountain (to a height higher than the Kyoto Tower). I expected to spot a monkey or two hiding in a tree, but when we finally made it to the top...there were monkeys everywhere! I was scared. These animals are dangerous. A flyer given to us listed certain precautions - not to show them food, not to try and pet them, and not to make eye contact with them. I quickly learned why one should not make eye contact with a monkey. They're cute and furry, but when they feel threatened (i.e. when you stare at them) they get vicious, and they stare right back at you with the most horrifying expression I have ever seen. I swore I'd have nightmares for weeks. They stare back, reveal their razor sharp monkey fangs, and if they're irritated enough - they'll scream. Trust me. Don't do it. Then there was that time where I almost got attacked by one; it charged at me, and I saw my life flash before me. I ran, screamed, jumped on Catherine with a death grip and thankfully it left me alone. It was terrifying. My knees were shaking for a good 10 minutes after that. Once again folks, do not mess with the monkeys. They're cute, but they are completely capable and perhaps willing to tear your face off.

On a happier note, there was a cage you could go in to buy a bag of peanuts or apple slices to feed them. After walking around amazed and just looking at them (but not in the eyes), we went into the cage to feed them. It was pretty cool to be feeding wild monkeys, interestingly this park doesn't seem to be very well known by tourists - brocheurs and tour guides mention all of the temples, but no where do they suggest checking out the Monkey Park in Arashiyama! I don't understand this. It was definitely one of the highlights of my weekend. If you ever go to Kyoto - this is a must. It was a good time. Once we finished admiring the monkeys for a couple of hours, we made it to the base of the mountain toward a nice lake where we noticed there were row boats being rented out. It was warm, sunny and perfect weather to rent a boat and row around aimlessly. After an hour on the water, we walked around the little shops of Arashiyama and I bought a pretty fan. While we wandered around we indulged in our favourite Matcha (green tea) ice cream. So good. This was one of my favourite days.

To top it all off, some girls we met over dinner at the old restaurant in Gion told us about a cheap sushi place close by that we ought to check out. So that's exactly what we did. Sushi at this place was about 100 yen a plate (with two pieces per plate). My favourite part about this place was the little automatic toy shinkansen (bullet train) that would deliver special orders right to you. Needless to say I made a special order for Takoyaki...and let me tell you...the only thing better than Takoyaki...is Takoyaki delivered to you by a little Shinkansen!! It made my night.
I. LOVE. JAPAN.

Sunday night the girls had to leave since they had classes on Monday - meaning I was on my own for Monday. After three days in Kyoto, I felt like I had seen all that I really wanted to see and decided to make a trip to Nara, which is a city about an hour from Kyoto. Nara is known for the deer that roam around everywhere. The Shinto religion believes that deer are the messengers of the gods. The deer here pretty much own the place, they're spoiled by the people, Japanese and tourists alike that come to feed them. If they see food, they will walk up and beg, maybe get a bit pushy with you. All in all their pretty cute, and while signs are posted to warn people that they are wild animals and capable of attacking, I maintain that the deer aren't half as intimidating as the wild monkeys of Arashiyama. The other thing Nara is known for is Todaiji Temple, this temple houses the largest Daibutsu (Buddha) Vairocana. This temple definitely made it into my favourites. In fact, Nara in general is up there. Another hot spot of Japan I was happy to discover.

Monday evening I took my train ride home, it was the fastest train ride I've ever had - because it was on the fastest train in the world. Yes, I took the Bullet Train home (Shinkansen). A one way ticket cost me nearly as much as my flight to Okinawa at 12 700 yen (roughly $130). But on the bright side, it reduced my 8 hour trip from Kyoto to Tokyo to a mere 3 hours! cool huh?
Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed my travels in Kyoto; this is definitely one beautiful part of Japan. No description or photo could do it justice - you will have to see it for yourselves.

In other recent news, I've been drinking apple tea and sprinkling cinnamon on top - it's heavenly. School has been pretty good - not overly busy yet, but Japanese language class is getting progressively more difficult. I joined a gym the other day (I eat too much Takoyaki), and I will be teaching another english lesson before departing for more Japan travels.

Next stop: Okinawa!!

The plan: Fly on Monday, spend two nights on the main land in Naha and checkout the city. Then catch a ferry to a small island where we have booked a guest house for four nights.
White sand beaches, warm weather, glowing sunshine, a bit of relaxing and plenty partying awaits. I will be sure to document the good times upon my return.


Much love xo

Saturday, April 17, 2010

The Verdict

Okay, so I have now completed my auditing procedure where I was to sit in on each of the courses that appealed to me prior to submitting my course selection. The only course I attended and did not take was a Japanese language course that I mistakenly sat in on, only to realize that it was far too advanced. It definitely caught me off guard, and I must add, it was an awful experience. It turned out to be the 'beginners course' for people who had already studied some Japanese (though the course description did not make this very clear).

The professor only spoke in Japanese, and began her lesson by asking people to introduce themselves in Japanese. Of course everyone else managed to make it to the right class, so I was the only person who had no clue as to what was going on. After I had sat down and the lesson was underway, I knew I was locked in with no escape. It would be extremely rude to get up and walk out, in spite of having entered the wrong class. So I decided to sit through the hour and a half lesson to experience repeated humiliation when addressed by the professor (in Japanese). I turned beat red, as I tried to read what my friend beside me would jot down. Thinking back, it was rather humourous. The professor would pose a question to the class, and have students answer one by one according to their seat order. Thankfully, I was sitting in second last row, in the back of the room; this gave me just enough time to get my friend beside me to scribble down what I was expected to say. Finally when the professor walked over to me, speaking in Japanese I bashfully explained, "Nihongo wakarimasen" which I think means I do not understand Japanese; Nihongo meaning Japanese, and wakarimasen meaning "I do not understand" (Please note that the grammar may be off). She then responded (in Japanese, later translated for me) by telling me that I was in the wrong class (almost as if I hadn't quite figured that out already). After she caught on that I was clearly in the wrong class she spared me further embarassment by skipping over me, as she tested the other students. Phewf!

Now for a review of classes I will be taking. I am taking 9 classes in total (the minimum is 7) this semester, some more enjoyable than others - but all of them interest me in one way or another. Below you will find the descriptions of my first impressions, and overall rating of the course.

Discovering Culture Through Observation:
This course, as you may have figured, is based on observing Japanese culture. The content of the lessons is primarily to educate students on how to conduct qualitative research/field studies and the aim is for students to conduct a research project in small groups, later to present their findings.

What I think is particularly interesting in Japanese culture, and that stood out to me within my first week of living here, are the many taboos. One example being, talking on the trains. I knew that it was wrong to talk on one's cell phone (there are signs posted in the trains, and announcements that ask passengers to turn off their cell phones; also, turning your cell phone on silent is called "manner mode" as opposed to just "silent" - subtle hint?) haha. Anyway, I did not know that it was taboo to speak on the train. Being the somewhat loud and outgoing girl that I am, I was quick to offend this 'rule'. Excited to be on my first train ride in Japan, I proceeded to speak loudly across the aisle to my friends. Finally, Ryan, who has been here since the beginning of the school year, said "Tory...be quiet for just a second" ...so I paused to take a breath...and there was not one peep out of anyone else. I had literally been the only one talking the entire time. Oooops!

All that to say, it may be interesting to explore the reaction of Japanese people when I try to spark up a conversation (meaning I will have to master some conversation starters in Japanese). A foreigner such as myself, may be inclined to question whether they do not speak because 1. they're tired (leaving for/coming back from work) 2. they aren't with a friend on the train to talk to or 3. because talking can be distruptive or simply annoying in such close quarters. Train etiquette is merely one example, however there are many similar unconscious behaviours and various principles of etiquette within Japanese culture just waiting to be analyzed. Hopefully some answers will surface via this observational study. I will be sure to keep you all informed regarding our revised hypothesis and findings.

This course also has a very fascinating professor who speaks fluently in English (bonus!). She is a middle aged Japanese woman who spent much of her childhood growing up in Afghanistan. With such an interesting background she has developed a genuine appreciation for exploring culture and in particular cultural differences. I am optimistic about this course as a means of adding to my perspective and enhancing my overall experience while living in Japan.
Rating: ****

Japan in the Foreign Imagination:
This is another course that will contribute to my experience of Japan; however, doing so from a rather different angle. The aim of this course is to explore some popular foreign images of Japan, primarily American misconceptions (some of which I may have held upon coming here). The professor is an American, who has lived in England for at least 10 years and specializes in Japanese Education. This class seems as though it will be extremely interesting, and full of useful knowledge that I can share with friends back home who may presently hold these popular misconceptions of Japan. Stereotypes ranging from skewed history textbooks, to conceptions concerning the recent Toyota incident will be covered in this class. There is no doubt that I will finish this course with an entirely refreshed point of view.
Rating: ****

Japanese Buddhism and Social Suffering:
The first thing I noticed about this course was how cool the professor is. John Watts is likely one of the youngest professors I've ever had, who is also currently a practicing Buddhist. Professor Watts does not subscribe to a very faith based version of Buddhism, yet he is committed more to the lifestyle Buddhism pursues. He will be teaching a lot of material regarding contemporary issues within Buddhism which is fascinating (i.e. sexism, discrimination and suicide). He seems like a pretty cool guy, with a good sense of humour and his lectures are quite engaging. On Fridays he invites students to come to the temple he works at for a meditation session - something I look forward to checking out. Oh! and there are field trips involved! :)
This course is has me particularly intrigued, as philosophy major, because I enjoy interpreting the underlying concepts of Buddhism (which have a certain appeal) and comparing them to popular philosophies (i.e. contrasting some ideas of Buddhism's take on suffering, with Friedrich Nietzsche's concept of the role of suffering). Okay, I'm a nerd.
Rating: ****

International Human Rights Law:
As they say, "you win some, you lose some". This course...is a loss. Don't get me wrong, I will be taking it - however, I may not successfully refrain from sleeping in class. The professor speaks in a monotonous tone of broken English (in fact, some of the words she uses may not even be English at all). -- I'm sorry, did I say "speaks"? I mean reads. For the most part, the professor stands in front of the class, and briefly introduces the topic which she will proceed to read to you for the remainder of the 1.5 hr period. To make matters worse, what she is reading is essentially the exact photocopy that she gave you a week prior for you to read for that class. Basically, if you weren't bored enough when you read it the first time (because reading legal treaties, contracts and customs etc. is such a thrill), you are sure to be put to sleep when she reads it to you for yet another time.
Last class there was an attempt at having a class discussion, where maybe three or four students (of around 20) voiced their opinion on whether or not human rights are universal. This is right up my alley, unfortunately I don't always understand what is being asked of me. Overall, this course is like watching paint dry...after chugging a bottle of Nyquil - so why am I taking it? For the course content. I want to have at least a basic understanding of international human rights law, which I think everyone should educate themselves on as good general knowledge. So hopefully by reading the tons of photocopies of the Charter, and then listening to it again the following class, I will retain some of this highly useful information.
Rating: ** (that could be generous)

Culture and the Unconscious:
Okay, so this professor is very strict on attendance - he made this clear on day one; this is something I am not really accustomed to - but the course seems like it will be an interesting one. This course will be highly discussion based, thus much of the content will be shaped by the experiences of individuals in this (massive) class. Tons of international students, as well as Japanese natives have decided to take this course, which makes for very interesting discussions. By getting into small groups, and being told by the professor what to talk about, we learn through sharing stories, experiences, ideas and opinions. The main theme of the course revolves around experiencing another culture and then examining the subconscious influence(s) of these experiences. This will be great for me to genuinely reflect and focus on how this exchange has/will have effected me within these next few months (and when I figure it out, I will be sure to let you know).
Rating: ***

Introduction to Japanese Politics:
In short...Snore fest. Slightly less grueling than my Int'l Human Rights Law course, so that's a plus. The professor is rather boring, she lectures quietly, and uses the word "well" way too much (at the start of every sentence, or at least thought). Her background in politics is somewhat philosophy related - focusing mostly on theory which means she scored some brownie points in my books. I am just not sure as to how many more slides on Japanese political history I can handle (Pie charts, years, numbers, percentages etc.). That being said, I still have hope for this class - maybe she is just waiting to build up our anticipation of the day where she will delve into the exciting stuff! (or......not?). Either way I will be sticking with this course in order to transfer this valuable half credit toward my newly declared Politics minor at Queen's University. Since I only decided this past year that I would like to pursue a minor in political science, I need all the credits I can get. For this reason, I think I will be able to handle it.
Rating: **


In Search of new Civic Societies:
This course is on NGOs and NPOs, and will draw a comparison between those of the U.S., China, and Japan. The professor wants to explore the reason behind there being more of these civil societies in some areas (i.e. the U.S.) and far less in Japan. This course seems very interesting and I look forward to learning more about an area that I know virutally nothing about. In addition, this course is also one that I hope to cash in for another half credit toward my minor. The professor seems cool, early on I noticed his entusiasm and that he is very interested in what he is teaching; after taking courses such as Int'l Human Rights Law, and Intro. to Japanese Politics - an energetic teacher is key to a good class.
Rating: ***

Basic Japanese I & Basic Japanese II:
These are two separate, but consecutive classes on Wednesday mornings. On Wednesdays I get up at the crack of dawn to make it to the first of these two classes on time (9:00am). On day one the professor made clear that being even one minute late is unaccpetable; too many lates means not being allowed to sit the final exam. This lady means business. The plus side is that she is an excellent teacher. She is a small Japanese lady, with an Australian accent. I haven't learned a new language in a long time, but I think I am up for the challenge. For this course I was to memorize the 46 basic Hiragana characters and I must say, learning a new (and radically different) alphabet doesn't come easily. Practice. Practice. Practice. Apart from writing in Japanese (Hiragana) we will also learn basic grammar, vocabulary and phrases. Signing up for this course seemed like a good idea considering I will be living in Tokyo for 4 months; I will literally be applying my new knowledge immediately and frequently.
Rating: ****

So that's essentially what I think about all of my courses. While these opinions could be subject to change over the course of this semester, I did my best to capture my first impressions. I am happy to have a set schedule, and a somewhat relaxed one too!

Today I taught another English lesson this morning (which went very well), then I discovered a cheap shoe store and splurged a little and later I will be booking my flight to Okinawa for 'Golden Week' (a week of various holidays conveniently clumped together)! Okinawa is the South West island of Japan, with lovely beaches, palm trees and warm weather. I've only just started class, but I guess it's time for a vacation. My new Australian friend and I plan to spend a few days in the city before heading over to the beaches to soak up the sun. We may even try and hop on a boat (ferry) to check out another island. Stay tuned to hear more about my Okinawa getaway :) !

Much love from Tokyo,
xoxo

Saturday, April 10, 2010

When 'Fresh' Takes on a New Meaning

WARNING: Some of the following content may be offensive to certain vegetarians, vegans or avid animal lovers.

First things first - at the risk of completely humiliating myself - I would like to revise a statement that was made toward the end of my previous blog post. It has recently been brought to my attention that what I thought were mini post-it notes that came inside my container of gum, were actually......small papers supplied for a more sanitary means of discarding one's gum. Of course. That makes much more sense! hahaha, while I was elated at the thought of receiving some bonus stationery with my gum....I am equally impressed with little papers for the sake of sanitary disposal. Genius. (Little papers which seem to...double as post-it notes! even better.) hahaha --> Thank you, Lisa Pollard.

Now, for today's events.
I woke up to a text message asking if I would care to join a few girlfriends in venturing over to the fish market for lunch. Anyone who knows me would know that an invitation to some fresh and delicious sushi is one I wouldn't think to decline. I had slept in, and it seemed as though everyone else was waiting on me - so I rolled out of bed, quickly attempted to make myself look presentable - and was on my way ! The sun was shining, and the temperature was warm; it was perfect weather for wandering around aimlessly in search of some good sushi. We hopped off the train at Tsukiji station only for our nostrels to be greeted with a pungent fishy smell. We knew we had to be close. There is nothing like waking up to a potent stench of raw fish, I will tell you that much. We roamed around for just a short time before noticing a large swarm of people waiting outside the doors of a fairly long building. Surely these people were all here for the same reason - lunch in the world famous Tsukiji fish market. Over the doors hung different restaurant signs; we chose to eat at Daiwa (as suggested by our "Lonely Planet Tokyo" guide) and stepped in line. The restaurants were all very similar, in that, they were tiny in size, with small stools in front of a small bar. Each restaurant seemed to be able to seat no more than 15 guests. After waiting in the lineup outside for somewhere around 20-25 minutes we made it in. By this time, our appetites had peaked.

Now I would like to make yet another revision in reference to my previous blog post which describes "sushi in the fish market". It seems to me, that what I had previously thought was "sushi in the fish market" would be more accurately described as "sushi near the fish market". What I experienced today, was more precisely, sushi in the fish market! I certainly have had my share of fresh and delicious sushi since I have been living in Japan - however, as of today, the term "fresh" has been redefined for me. My dear friends......you have not experienced fresh sushi until you have literally watched it die in front of you before consuming it.
Today.....I made eye contact with a portion of my meal. As repulsive as that may sound, how many of you can say that? It was quite the experience to say the least.
Today.....I ate some things I absolutely loved, and others...I would never eat again.

We decided to order the 'set meal' for 3500 yen (approximately $35.00 cdn). It seemed like a wise choice to order a smorgasbord from such a reputable sushi-ya to get the most out of our fish market experience. Take note, one thing you should never do in Japan is leave food uneaten. Personally, what I think truly enforces this principle of etiquette is the fact that you're sitting and eating directly across from the chef (which is much different from leaving food on your plate in a Canadian restaurant, before escaping and having the food thrown out by a server who couldn't care less). All that to say, you eat (and swallow) what is placed in front of you and that is that; mind you, when you don't know what you're about to eat, or you do but you're afraid to eat it - this task becomes 'easier said than done'.
Sushi was love at first taste for me, so I was thrilled to be enjoying a sushi meal in its country of origin, and furthermore in the world famous fish market of Tsukiji. The tuna was my favourite (always a safe way to go), I also sampled flounder (which was tasty - in spite of making me think of the adorable Disney character), scalop, sea urchin (not a fan), squid (ick), prawn (I witnessed its death), grilled shrimp head (Mmm...), fish eggs (salty & they pop in your mouth), flat fish (not sure what that is, but it was good). All of which was accompanied by some tasty miso soup and green tea. Not all of it went down easy, but I left feeling full and with a sense of accomplishment.

While we were walking around soaking up the sun, we noticed a sign for a 'scenic park' called Hama-rikyu Gardens. What I find particularly fascinating is that such a gorgeous and serene park is located right by the hustle and bustle of a concrete coated city. In following the stone paths weaving around the gardens of trees, flowers, and Cherry Blossoms, we spotted a Japanese couple dressed in traditional wear on their wedding day and an old tea house just by a large pond. After walking around for an hour or so, we decided to take a boat tour on the 'water bus' (also referred to as a 'boat cruise'). We 'cruised' along a river that passed through areas with fabulous architecture and some lovely Cherry Blossom trees that lined the waterfront. In spite of growing all over the place in Japan, for some reason I find these trees remain breathtaking every single time I see them (I can assure you that even the decorated Christmas tree cannot compare to these Cherry Blossoms). Along the way we passed under several bridges (13 to be exact); they were spectacular, no two were remotely alike. After 45 minutes of kicking back and being tourists we arrived at our final destination which was Asakusa.

In Asakusa there was a nice pathway and grassy areas where tons of people gathered to have a picnic and enjoy the weather (possibly continuing to celebrate the Cherry Blossoms). There were booths scattered around everywhere with more delicious food being cooked up. Crepes (yum!), Yakitori (various meat skewers), and more. After inhaling the various tantalizing scents, we finally caved and chose to indulge in some mouth-watering Takoyaki (which are fried and garnished octopus balls). Amazing. Not such a healthy choice, but definitely a treat!
We were exhausted after all of this walking around and being tourists, so we head back to residence and relax. I discovered another treat on the way when we made a quick stop at the 7-11 (conbini). This unfamiliar dessert caught my eye, so I decided to try it out. It was by far one of the most different, yet exquisite desserts I have ever sampled. It's called Daifuku; this is a small round rice cake, stuffed with red bean paste. Beans?! in my dessert, you say? Yes. And it was absolutely scrumptious. I have a feeling that I will have to actively restrain myself from eating these eight times a day. Ohhhh Daifuku, my new love. I will never look at red beans in the same way again.

Overall, today was filled with a variety of delectable treats from the living lunch to the deepfried snacks and the lentil stuffed desserts! Now I'm off to unwind for the night over a hot cup of tea.

As always, much love to my people. xo

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

A Pleasant Surprise

Today was a simple day and the very last day I had to myself before classes begin since the auditing process starts tomorrow (yay!). This morning I woke up slightly anxious and excited to teach my very first english lesson. I was going in without much of a plan, and because I tend to be a bit of an organization freak this was slightly disconcerting. Additionally, I was terrified of having posed as a teacher, when I really wasn't even sure if I had the ability to teach; I don't believe that this ability always comes naturally, and so I would soon find out whether or not I could fulfill such an ambitious commitment. Fearful that I wouldn't be a good enough 'Sensei', I remained optomistic. It was a big deal to walk in to a situation with my sole plan being to make a plan when I got there. Without any real conception of my student's level of english, I decided it would be best to feel things out and form a learning strategy together; in doing so I would be assured that she would be getting exactly what she wanted out of these lessons.

We met at a nice coffee shop in my neighbourhood. When I sat down, (still a bit nervous) she was extremely sweet and bought me a coffee. Obviously nobody wants to be instructed by a nervous wreck of a teacher (that wouldn't be too reassuring, now would it?), so while she was placing the order I took a deep breath, managed to collect myself and put on my game face. All the while, still racking my brain as to how to kick off my first english lesson. Essentially, I wanted to ask her "Okay, where do we begin? what would you like to learn?" - but then I just smiled to myself, thinking - what a stupid question. She wants to learn english, hence being unable to even respond to such a question. - Okay. think Tory....think. - So I took a look at the three books she brought with her, they covered everything from the grammar she was taught throughout elementary school and high school, to handbooks she had picked up in attempt to teach herself. I was glad there were some reference materials, but where would I begin?

Thankfully she showed up more prepared than I did. Just as I had suggested to her, she brought along a sheet of phrases she wanted to learn. They were typed in Hiragana (a writing style that I have only just started to teach myself in preparation for my Japanese language classes) so I would not be able to read or translate them. The phrases she sought to learn were those which she would use in her retail work environment to better serve tourists/foreigners. Although the initial plan was that I would have these phrases translated and ready to teach her by our next session, we managed to cover most of it in our first sitting. I looked at her typed work and asked just generally what they meant - yet another stupid question while I stalled for time. At this point she answered in english as best she could, and I was able to gauge her level of english. (Great idea Tory!) She knew a few words here and there, and (having plenty of experience working in retail) I was able to guess at what these phrases meant (with the help of her hand signals, gestures and drawings). By the end of the lesson we had covered most of the material she wanted to learn! I noticed that her writing in english is quite impressive and she told me that she could understand what I was saying far better than she could speak. She seemed extremely satisfied with how the first lesson went, stressing that she would be practising diligently before our next session. As it turned out, lesson number one was a big success.

I sat with her for a bit longer to chat while I finished up my cup of coffee. In talking and getting to know each other a bit, I mentioned to her that I am studying philosophy. I told her about how much I enjoyed observing Japanese culture, noticing in particular some of the radical differences in contrast with my culture. She said that she was reading a book, that compares Western cultures which are majorly based on Christianity, and Oriental cultures with their roots in Buddhism. Naturally, I took this opportunity to rant about some key philosophies in relation to the subject. While conversing this way took a bit more work (involving gestures, repeating and re-phrasing) afterward, she smiled as she told me that she had never had any kind of intellectual conversation in english - let alone, with a foreigner before; something about that warmed my heart. Today I discovered not only that I am able to teach, but also how truly rewarding it is.

I stopped to pick up some sushi on my way home. The weather was gloomy, a bit chilly with a cool mist - all I could think about was crawling back under my warm covers to get some of the sleep I lost last night (likely due to the nerves surrounding this first lesson). Needless to say, that is exactly what I did. Feeling restored I met up with a couple of girl friends to head over and explore Hiyoshi campus. Since our Japanese language classes would be taught over there, we though it would be wise to familiarize ourselves with the area and how to get there beforehand. With that mission accomplished we made a stop at the grocery store on the way home.

I'm not a huge fan of grocery shopping, so I didn't hesitate to stock up. In 21 years, I have never laid eyes on so many instant noodles. Of course I will need to sample them all... the curry and sea food flavours seem tasty. Then I got my hands on some insant miso soup...and some oatmeal. Basically, any meal that can be made by adding hot water (curtousey of my kettle) has an instant appeal (no pun intended). hahaha Then I grabbed a variety of teas and some instant coffee (surprise?) haha. I may have gotten a bit carried away (I don't even know if I like instant coffee...I'll get back to you on that one). AND THEN. -- I purchased what turned out to be my favourite item in that entire grocery store.

Gum. A jar of it. (I have this weird thing for gum in jars. I call it "Desk Gum", because it sits on my desk, and I chew it as I philosophize - Go ahead call me weird). I was rather excited to see that they had a decent selection of "Desk Gum" in Tokyo. Like your average consumer, I chose the flavour with the fascinating label. It made me giggle because it looks somewhat like the piece of gum is exploding with some sort of sparkling powder. (Ouuuu! this flavour must absolutely errupt in your mouth) You know it has to be good when it has "sparking mint flavor" - sparks you say? ok. sounds painfully delicious. (mind you, it happens to be sugarless. hmmm...?) Well whatever...the best is yet to come my friends...
So, I open the lid which looks as though it had been sealed in such a way that it could be launched in to space...only to find............................
POST-IT NOTES?!?! ...WHATTTTT?! Yes. Mini.........green........self-stick......post-it notes.
At this point...I laughed out loud. Really loud. - Life is good.

Just to reiterate...My "Desk Gum"... came with... Post-it notes. (!!!)

And That my friends......is what I call....... A Pleasant Surprise.

Yet another reason as to why I love Tokyo. On that happy (post-it?) note... I need to get some rest. Good night! (or Morning)

Much Love. xo

Sunday, April 4, 2010

The Tokyo Party Scene

Naturally it was only a matter of time before I would discover the Tokyo nightlife. After three consecutive nights on the town I think I am able to fill you guys in. My very first night out was with two new friends Ron and Sarah. We hit up a well known party area called Roppongi. This is typically where most foreigners/tourists go out to party. The club was called Jumanji (as in that really horrible movie starring Robin Williams). One way to recognize this club is by the massive statue outside, which I am assuming is some sort of creature that appears in the movie at some point. Although it looks more like a version of JarJar Binx from Starwars...Either way, it is an eye catching work of...uhm...art? Inside, the Jumanji theme is carried out with decorations such as a massive T-rex head on the wall, and monkeys for the legs of the bar stools...interesting to say the least. Getting straight to the point...ladies nights (Tuesdays and Thursdays) are GOOD nights at this bar; No cover, and...FREE champagne...all night long. Yes. I kid you not my friends. Free. Delicious. Drinks. Need I say more? The peach champagne spritzers were delightful! - and if you ask me, free drinks always taste better.
After a long night of dancing and drinking, we grabbed a bite ('Ramen' as a matter of fact). - Ramen is a noodle/soup dish with a chunk of pork in it. People that enjoy it...seem to LOVE it. but it's not my thing. Not my favourite dish for a couple of reasons 1. I find it a bit on the salty side. and 2. It comes in a bowl so massive that it always seems to leave me uncomfortably full afterwards. I hate that feeling. (and no, you cannot ask to take a 'doggy bag' and finish it later. That would be a serious breach of Japanese cultural etiquette).
Oh ! one more important thing about partying in Japan...when you go out to party, you need to really commit - this is because you will be out until at least 6am (when the trains start running again). The last train leaves is at midnight, and the first train to get home in the morning is around 5:30am or 6am I believe. I must say getting on the train after leaving the club and sitting across from/beside men in suits on their way to work is pretty funny - That was definitely a first.

After a long night out, the plan becomes to recuperate during the day...and do it all over again. So Friday night we tried out a couple of different clubs. First we tried out a club called Camelot in Shibuya. This club was nice, fairly big. Like most clubs you pay cover and then get two free drinks upon entrance (don't mind if I do!). It has three rooms, one with house/electro music playing, one with hip hop and then a room downstairs that plays (an odd mix of) pop hits. It didn't seem to be very busy so we decided to try out a different bar in Roppongi. On the way out I noticed a key feature of this club which sets it apart from the rest...this feature being a little hair salon of some sort. Ladies if you're ever pressed for time and feel as though you can't get your hair done before the bar, now you can get it done at the bar! wow. That's a relief. hahaha

We head over to a club called New Lex which we were at just briefly before leaving once we couldn't get a table in the V.I.P lounge. However, we didn't leave before accepting our free drink. The music was good, top 40's type stuff...The verdict: it's a fun place that seems popular - it fills up fast on weekends, so we knew we'd be back.

The last stop of the night was Fbar which I believe is short for 'Fashion bar' where we were able to get the V.I.P lounge and bottle service. True to its name there were models all over the place, mostly tall, slim (emaciated), but gorgeous, caucasian females, and a few males as well. Some of these people could not be mistaken for anything other than runway models. That being said, it's a little shot to the old ego, but a fun place to be nonetheless. The bar itself is somewhat small, and no real dancefloor either, which I found a bit odd but the chandeliers are a nice touch. Overall this bar gets a 3 star rating in my books. It seems popular among our group of friends though, so I'm sure I will be back there a few more times...and when I am...I've decided I may pack a bag of bread rolls to handout to the girls (models?) that look like they're starving themselves.

One thing I would like to inform people of (in case any readers are planning to visit Japan) is the risk of receiving a spiked drink in a bar/club...in particular in the area of Roppongi. While Japan is one of the world's safest countries, it is not excluded from incidents of this sort. Recently warnings have been issued by the U.S Embassy. See this link for details - http://www.japantoday.com/category/crime/view/us-embassy-warns-americans-to-avoid-roppongi-bars-due-to-drink-spiking-increase

On that note...come to Tokyo, party hard...but remember to party safely :)

Now apart from all of the partying, believe it or not, I actually made it to Hanami (a Japanese tradition & celebration of the Cherry Blossoms). I was in rough shape, but managed to enjoy a leisurely stroll through a park to view the Cherry Blossoms in full bloom, and the thousands of people gathered to celebrate at this festival. The celebration is a very big deal in Japan. People bring large blankets to sit on, food to eat for the day, and plenty of alcoholic beverages to drink and enjoy under the Cherry Blossoms; they will even sleep in the park to reserve a spot! While my friends and I didn't set up for a picnic or spend the entire day, we didn't miss out on how spectacular the Cherry Blossoms are, or how the celebration goes down. Observing Hanabi was a real testament to the fact that the Japanese definitely know how to party. Every park filled with Cherry Blossom trees was equally filled with people! This is one party that nobody would even dream of missing out on. The good news is that the Setagaya Park is just minutes away from my residence; it is massive, with a gorgeous fountain - a great place to enjoy a walk or read on a nice sunny day in Tokyo. Now I'm just waiting on the warm sunny weather...

Classes don't start until April 8th, when students are required to partake in the auditing week. This is when students sit in on the first class of the courses that appeal to them to see if it's suitable (brilliant, no?). Then students are required to receive a signature from the professors of the classes they wish to take (one reason to suck up to your prof...) haha. I don't quite understand this part of the process, but I'm going to go with it. The courses I plan to take at this point include:
Development and Social Change
International Human Rights Law
Discovering Culture Through Observation (yay! field trips)
Culture and the Unconcious
Language Beyond Grammar (a fancy name for studying Japanese; I will be taking 2-3 Japanese language courses)
Japanese Buddhism and Social Suffering
Japan in the Foreign Imagination
Introduction to Japanese Politics

The minimum is 7 courses, but thankfully classes are only an 1.5 hrs/week (which is only half of what I am used to) - So if all goes as planned I will be taking 10 courses. However, I must admit that a part of me is hoping that a couple of them don't work out to be as interesting as they sound. Another confession: I am really looking forward to starting class. I know, I'm a nerd.

Speaking of courses, I better get to studying some Hiragana!

Much love from Tokyo, miss you all!