Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Tory 1, Mt.Fuji 0

Well it all came together pretty fast once my original plans to climb Mt.Fuji fell through as the 4 friends I had planned to go with cancelled for various reasons. I was a bit disappointed at first, and wasn't sure what to do - I certainly wasn't about to climb by myself. Thankfully, I found out that another friend (and neighbour) of mine had plans to do the climb on Sunday night (July 17th). I jumped at the opportunity asking if it would be okay for me to join her and her group; soon enough the plans were confirmed (and only a few days in advance too). We met up at a station with a few others and her friend, Nao (the organizer of the climb) who would drive us to Mt.Fuji. Our group included 1 Japanese guy, 3 Japanese girls, 1 Korean girl, 1 Taiwanese guy, and my friend Pauline from France - and of course, myself...the Canadian. All packed up and ready to go, we piled into the car at around 10pm to head to the mountain. About an hour and a half later we were driving through the forest coming up to the base of Mt.Fuji. The forest is called Aokigahara, aka. the forest of the dead; said to be haunted and stands as the second most popular location for suicides in the world (next to the Golden Gate Bridge). Although I do not believe in ghosts it certainly made for an extremely spooky drive - I started to feel as though I was in some sort of horror movie. But I digress, all discomforting thoughts were cleared as we arrived at our destination.

As I looked around at fellow climbers preparing to head up the mountain, I quickly began to feel ill equipped. Most climbers were Japanese, and looked as though they knew what they were doing. They had head lamps, ski poles/hiking sticks, proper hiking boots, and were dressed as though they were about to climb Mt.Everest - wearing heavy wind-breaking pants, thick parkas and even tuques. Meanwhile, I had a backpack filled with plenty of snacks and fluids, a couple of extra layers, and a flashlight. Though it was a little discouraging to see these Japanese hikers taking things so seriously - being a Canadian - I wasn't overly concerned. We gathered at the starting point, paused for a quick group photo and were on our way. And I must say....I had no idea what I was getting myself into.

I think the fact that Mt.Fuji is so often referred to as such a major tourist attraction is quite misleading; as it almost implies that climbing this 3, 776 meter (or 12 388 ft) volcano, Japan's highest mountain, is a fun or leisurely undertaking. ...it wasn't. My friends, I will not sugarcoat it...this climb was probably the most difficult thing I've ever done in my life.

So, without further adieu, here is my un-cut story, of the time I climbed Mt.Fujisan...

It was midnight and things started off just fine. Adrenaline was pumping through my veins. Everyone was excited and full of energy - an energy that would die down somewhere between the 6th and 7th station. The route we took started off with steps...nothing too strenuous. But this was only the beginning. The start of the trail is marked with a Torii gate (a Shinto shrine marking a sacred place where climbers can pause and ask for protection throughout their long and challenging ascent up the mountain). As we continued, the steps disappeared, replaced by big bolders that cluttered the path - it was then that the real climbing began. 15 minutes in and I was panting (though I am not sure what this says about my physical condition), Nao (who had climbed Mt.Fuji two years prior) assured us that this was only "the beginning of the beginning" he would say...and for a while I thought he was just being facetious. In the first hour of the climb, I was expecting we would get onto some nicely paved path with just a shallow incline that would wind up the mountain to lead us to the top. I don't know what I was thinking.

After the first hour or so we arrived at the 6th station, where a handful of people were sitting around for a rest. At each station there are little huts selling (expensive) bowls of ramen, and a selection of (over priced) drinks. The trail we had taken was a bit longer than the more popular route, which tends to get quite crowded; on this path we not only had the advatage of less crowds but also a clear sight of the starry night sky from any point along the way. This turned out to be an excellent choice, since we had started too late to see the sunrise from the summit. I was more than happy to see the sunrise from about 2/3 of the way up the mountain - we had an excellent view, and didn't feel rushed for the rest of the climb (Traditionally people climb Mt.Fuji at night aiming to watch the sunrise from the summit). I should add that it was a gorgeous night, and the perfect weather. Needless to say the sunrise was absolutely breathtaking. By far the most beautiful sight I have ever seen. After snapping multiple photographs of the view it was time to keep moving up.

The trail was marked with some signs along the way, directing us toward the next station. The biggest disappointment however, was learning that for each station, there was an 'original' station. So for example, after leaving station 6, we encountered a sign telling us we were about an hour away from the 'original 6th station'. And this continued throughout the entire climb. Each pseudo station, had its respective 'original' station - all I can say is...whoever posted these signs must have had a great sense of humour. Furthermore, there seemed to be the occasional time quote discrepancy, where one sign would say '50 minutes' to the next station, and the next would estimate '80 minutes' to the next station.

Well, getting to the 8th station was grueling, but the worst was yet to come. This station is a popular place to crash for most climbers. There is a hut where people can pay 5000 yen (about $50) to sleep on the floor with a bunch of fellow (exhausted) climbers. One of the girls in the group chose to do so. From this station on the climb is said to get significantly more challenging, the air gets noticably thinner (some climbers purchase a portable can of oxygen), and some will experience altitude sickness and be forced to either spend the night or descend. Two stations away from the summit (which is about 2 more hours of sheer pain) and I wasn't about to quit. However, it's by the 8th station that your body actually begins to work against you (or me anyway). Every break at a station seemed to be a real trade off, where my body was screaming at me to give it a rest, and it felt so good to sit and let my muscles relax...but then to start up again became tremendously difficult. There was no way around this. From the 8th station onward, the theory of 'mind over matter' was put to the test. My legs felt like they were filled with lead, and were resisting every single step - but my mind was eager to make it to the summit. You get the picture...it was rough. The climb was steep and painful. The terrain was mostly gravel and small rocks, and every step that took so much effort would slide back half a pace. Some parts were stacked bolders, which demanded every ounce of my energy to climb up. To be honest, I made it from the 8th to the 9th station at a snail's pace, taking plenty of breaks. I didn't mind so much, as long as I made it there. The 9th station is basically the top, where most people rest, eat, drink, purchase souvenirs. The 10th station is just a 5 minute walk from there, to make it to the summit; the highest point.

After resting a bit and taking ample pictures of the magnificent panoramic view from the 9th station, I collected myself and head up to the 10th and final station. At the 10th station there is a torii gate, where the group of us posed for pictures and stood around in amazement. I never thought I would see the day where I'd be standing on the top of a volcano, let alone, the highest peak in Japan. The crater was so cool, I was speechless as I stared down into the abyss from which lava last poured out in 1708. sweeeeet. There was some snow around the crater, and the top was a bit chilly with gusts of wind - but being a Canadian - it was no big deal.

Unfortunately, from the top, I really had no idea what I was in for on the way down. If I had to describe the descent in one word it would be 'excruciating'. If you're thinking about climbing Mt.Fuji, I would urge one to wear appropriate footwear. I made the mistake of wearing a pair of Pumas, average running shoes with a thin sole; they were demolished by the end of the climb. I won't go into too much detail about the pain, but stopping every five steps to dump gravel out of my shoes, and relieve the pressure from my toes pressing against the front of my shoes prolonged the trip down the mountain (by 45min - an hour). Please note that this was not the case for those in my group wearing proper hiking boots.
Now that I have finished whining....

Having fully recovered, and looking back on things - the climb was just an amazing experience; and quite the accomplishment! That being said, there is a well-known saying in Japan: "Anybody would be a fool not to climb Mt.Fuji once - but a fool to do so twice" but I think one will only develop a true understanding of this after their first (and likely their last) climb.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Work. Party. & Pen Pals.

In between being bombarded with school work - writing reports, exams and such - I haven't been up to all that much. I have spent too many days hermitting in my room, I tend to get really overwhelmed when it comes to school work and it tuckers me right out. So when I wasn't writing a report (or stressing out about writing a report) I was sleeping. I get so flustered that my body just shuts down on me, and I need to nap in order to recharge frequently. So that's my sob story about the life of a university student, but life hasn't been all that bad. I've managed to complete most of my work; the way I (somehow) always do. I am currently just one essay away from complete freedom!! Therefore, I thought I'd take some time to write a new blog post.

Recently, I decided to head out with my friend Sophie to one of Japan's (many) quirky little restaurants. I don't think one can truly appreciate Japan without checking out some of its more - shall we say - unique restaurants. This one was train themed. We had been determined to get to this place for a while, the first trip we made was disappointing since it was closed. But this time, we made sure it was open! I really didn't know what to expect (you never can with some of these things). Outside was a vending machine like menu, where you prepay for a ticket to give to the chef. When we walked in, we were impressed with the train seats for chairs, and the train paraphernalia everywhere. The place was cluttered with pictures, tickets, toy train models, pretty much anything related to trains was somehow used to decorate this little place. There are only about five 'booths' in the whole restaurant, so it definitely had a cozy feel to it. Oh, and I suppose the main attraction might be the toy train that delivers your curry dish. Though I had seen it done before (i.e. the toy shinkansen train at Kappa), this model train was an old fashioned one and it was pretty cool. The curry was...subpar, but the experience was awesome! In general, I have to say that I think I'm a bigger fan of Indian curry than Japanese curry, but I was still quite happy to be in one of Japan's odd little restaurants. I would probably recommend this place for anyone visiting the area. On our way out the owner ran up and gave us a souvenir - a little train ticket stamped with the date, which will make for a great addition to my scrap book.

In other exciting news, I bought myself a Nikon D3000. After hanging out with three of my friends who all have the same camera, I couldn't help but notice how crappy and inadequate my little digital camera is. There I was, about to travel some of the most amazing parts of the world, with no appropriate camera to capture my experiences. No way jose. I went out to see what I could find... Sure enough, I scored a great deal (it happened to be on sale!) and I am really excited to put it to good use. My plans for when I am done this last week of school involve some 'street photography' in Japan. I'm not so skilled with a camera yet, but this one is really easy to use (it's actually idiot proof) so I expect I will be able to snap some good photos.

Since last week was a bit hellish (with two papers due on the Friday), I decided to go out and party a bit Saturday night. [You know, unwind... kill some brain cells while I'm at it.] I knew I wouldn't leave Tokyo without going to Japan's biggest and most talked about night club - Ageha. Previous plans to make it there fell through, so Saturday night was the night.
The club is out in the middle of nowhere, but thankfully there is a free shuttle from Shinjuku station for this reason. The party crew consisted of myself, 5 Aussies and 1 New Zealander; a rowdie bunch - just my type of people. I had a big role as the only Canadian representative - but I think I did my country proud. As the story goes, we drank...we danced...we had a great night. And the club, well...it's certainly huge. 3 Floors, each with a different Dj. I was glad to have made it out on a 'House' night - some of my favourite stuff to dance to. Outside there is a big swimming pool (for decoration, not for swimming) - but it's nice to look at, and creates a cool "pool party" atmosphere. The main bar on the first floor is equipped with four long poles on each corner - these are for the pole dancers that entertain throughout the night. I think I was more impressed than any guy in the room - those girls were talented! and the 'moves' were tasteful. I believe I have acquired a new appreciation for pole dancing (but don't worry Mom, it's not my thing). All in all, it turned out to be yet another successful night on the town (that ended at 8am).

So party time is over with and it's back to work for me - which is what I have been doing since. I resigned from Abercrombie in order to focus on my final reports, and later to dedicate my time to planning my travels (which I am still really looking forward to). The staff at A&F were nice, and it was great meeting new people - but I can't say I will miss the job itself. I did get used to it and it wasn't bad I guess - just probably something I would get bored of had I been there any longer; I will be working my last shift tomorrow. Then it's "Sayonara" !!

Yesterday I received a letter in the mail from a grade 6 student that I met when she was on a class trip in Kamakura. She was in a small group of kids and I gather part of their assignment was to try and meet foreigners to practice speaking English. They asked to have a picture with me, before asking me a few questions to get to know me a bit. I was flattered and pleasantly surprised to have received a copy of the picture along with sweetest letter. Basically...I now have a Japanese pen pal. Her name is Mika and she is just adorable.

Friends in my residence are packing up (I've started a little bit of packing myself). It's so hard to believe my stay in Japan is coming to an end; it feels like I only just arrived - but at the same time, I've adapted well and gotten pretty comfortable here (in some respects). Now that I've settled in, it's time to pick up and move on. Onward! now for a month long tour of Thailand, Cambodia,and Vietnam... then...I'm on my way back home.

There is so much I am going to miss about this place it is unreal! Some of the things making the top of the list include:
- Onigiri, Takoyaki & Daifuku (but all of the food in general!)
- The countless vending machines! (especially those with booze and warm coffee)
- the toilets (and there many functions - I'll probably be shy returning to the use of toilets that don't make flushing sounds)
- the pretty Japanese boys (with their perfect bone structure + edgy, fashion forward, and rather feminin style) AND their dancing.
- conbinis !!
- Purikuras!
- karaoke
- jelly drinks
- Matcha ice cream
- Broken English on various ads, labels and merchandise
- 7day second hand shops
- Basically...Japanese culture (respect)
- The Tokyo city life (so lively & fun)
- Izakayas (Japanese style 'pubs'); especially the all-you-can-drink ones
- The fashion (from 'Shibuya fashion' to 'Kawaii fashion' and 'Harajuku fashion' - I love it all.)
- the clubs and (long) nights out ['til 6am]
& SO much more!

I came, I saw, I fell in love. (with Japan)

xo

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Happy Birthday Canada !

It's Canada Day in Tokyo! (and my first Canada Day outside of Canada) so in tribute to my home and native land I wanted to dedicate a blog post to making mention of a few things that I miss about Canada; perhaps things I have come to appreciate even more having lived in Japan for the past few months...

- First and foremost, my beloved family and friends (You know who you are). Thanks so much for the continued support (i.e. taking interest in my blog). The ability to share all of my amazing experiences gives them so much more meaning ! Love you all xoxo.
- Space! mainly, private space in the public sphere (i.e. public transport, or even just walking down the street). Walking through Tokyo can be quite a physically demanding activity at times (such as busy hours, or weekends - Sundays are the worst!). Needless to say, life in Canada doesn't place such a strain on my agility when I just want to pick up some groceries or make it to class or work on time.
- A familiar language. I haven't heard English spoken anywhere (apart from conversation with friends, or in my classes), let alone been able to read anything since I've been here. This is something so easily taken for granted. I cannot read advertisements, or choose to pick up and read a stray newspaper - this form of familiarity is a fundamental aspect of feeling comfortable where you are. Although I manage to get by, I definitely miss the feeling of competence. (Then again, I could just learn Japanese...)
- The laid back Canadian life. I never tend to feel like I am rushing around so intensely in Canada the way I have felt in Japan (however this is mostly a characteristic unique to Tokyo). Also a laid back lifestyle in terms of dress. Sweatpants and a simple tee-shirt are generally considered acceptable university attire in Canada, whereas here - though there is no 'dress code' per se, such a fashion statement would definitely turn heads in a class room full of girls that look like they spent three hours getting ready for school (makeup, fake lashes, styled hair, high heels and an overall well-thought-out ensemble). This means no rolling out of bed, grabbing the first (and most comfortable) articles of clothing I can find and throwing my hair into pony tail before bolting out the door for class. Venturing out into the public eye in Tokyo means committing to 'getting ready' beforehand; looking decent. Ohhhh it's a hard life.
- Sometimes, I miss the Canadian social culture (i.e. occasionally making small talk with cashiers, servers and retail workers). This isn't so much in relation to the language barrier, but interestingly a difference in culture. Canadians typically view friendliness as a means of 'good service', and just a nice way to treat others in general, whereas the Japanese focus strictly on respect (no more and no less). In Japan, a worker seeks to do their job, and doesn't even expect to be recognized as an individual beyond who they are in their role or job position. Their aim is to do their job, and to do it well. It's nice, don't get me wrong, but I do like how Canadians can be so darn friendly. However, notice I specified this as something I only sometimes miss; in Japan, you will never encounter someone looking to vent to you about their life problems, or share a conversation with someone who is just a little bit too open. Eitherway, it seems there is no happy medium between the two - and the bottom line is: I do love Canadians.
- Good old Canadian weather (save the bitterly cold winter days). I didn't expect I would be saying this - but that was before experiencing what real 'rainy weather' is, and the most intense humidity I've ever been exposed to. There is being sweaty from extreme heat, and then there is being 'sticky' from untold levels of humidity. I am not a fan of either. In Japan, 'dressing for the weather' involves planning frizz-control for your hair. As for the rain - well, rainboots aren't the most attractive footwear and they do a nice job of spoiling any 'cute' outfit you've put together. I don't care what the pattern (i.e. polkadot, floral etc.) - rainboots are invariably heinous; there is simply no such thing as nice looking rainboots. Finally, I never leave my residence without my umbrella. Enough said. So Canadian winters can be frigid... but if you can layer and still look good, things really aren't so bad after all.
- Garbage cans: every 6 ft. in Canada - scarce in Japan. A simple convenience that goes a long way. For a country that seems to have no opposition to wrapping/packaging/bagging virtually everything (i.e. individually packaged bananas, and plenty of snacks that you will open to find individually wrapped pieces inside - even individually wrapped gum chicklets!; bags for the smallest purchases - it's insane) more garbage cans around doesn't seem like a bad idea.
- Last but certainly not least: Cultural diversity. My lovely multicultural country. This is also something that might be taken for granted by those born and raised in Canada. Living in Japan has given me the opportunity to experience what it is to be a visible minority and there are times when I truly miss not 'blending in' (i.e. at the gym, or on the train). It is often that I stick out like a sore thumb and while the attention is innocent and I have gotten used to it by now - sometimes I'm just not in the mood to standout, and there is absolutely nothing I can do about it. One key difference between visible minorities in Japan and those in Canada is that to be such in Japan automatically makes you a foreigner (naive, oblivious, inferior; an outsider), whereas in Canada, it would be anybody's guess as to whether you're a tourist or a Canadian citizen. This is part of what makes Canada so exceptional, and what makes me so proud to be Canadian.

There is a strong sense in which living in Japan has helped me realize just how Canadian I truly am. Every difference I have come to recognize is based on beliefs and values that were shaped within my Canadian culture; and many of these differences that I've discovered through life in Japan have led me to better recognize what I love so much about my home country. On that note, "Happy Canada Day!!". See you soon Canada!

Love always,

Your proud Canadian girl,

xo Tory