Eager to get home I mistakenly arrived at the airport 2 hours before my check in time, so I thought I would take this opportunity to pick up where I left off and update my blog.
After a pleasant stay in Siem Reap full of visits to the market and trips to the famous ruins of Angkor Wat I decided it was time to make my way to Phnom Penh to observe a more stark and depressing side of Cambodian history. While the Tuol Sleng genocide museum and the Killing Fields of the Khmer Rouge are by no means light hearted or even enjoyable attractions of Cambodia, I do believe that they ought to be visited by tourists as well – here visitors can pay respects and witness a more complete picture of Cambodia’s past.
I arrived after a 7 hour bus ride, after some haggling and bargaining I hopped in a tuk tuk and was on my way to the Sunday Guest house. The guest house certainly fit the budget at $4 a night, but with one glance at the room I would stay in, I was convinced that I landed myself in the bowels of Phnom Penh (I guess the price should have been my first hint). Upon checking in my primary concern was that I would have a decent Wifi connection in my room; the receptionist assured me this would be the case. Well, after being escorted to my room – not only was I shocked at the conditions, but I was upset to find that there was absolutely no connection in my room. I quickly set out attempting to find any guest house with a Wifi but wasn’t able to – so I convinced myself one night in this room may not be so bad after all. In case you’re wondering what $4 gets you in Phnom Penh: the (tiny) room consisted of a bed that was touching three of the four walls, with dirty sheets, and a ratty old towel for a blanket (stained with holes in it). Expect no air conditioning but a fan that may or may not work. The bathroom was complete with a scummy floor and a toilet covered in black grime (this is no exaggeration) it looked like it had never been cleaned – oh, and the room stunk like the pungent smell of an outhouse, an odour that would hit you like a punch in the face as you open the door. The funny thing is, I discovered this place online just before leaving for Phnom Penh; I scribbled down the name after reading a couple of positive reviews (whaaaaat?!).
At this point in my journey I wasn’t prepared to spend more than one night in Phnom Penh. I woke up to come downstairs to be approached by a tuk tuk driver. He got on my nerves quite a bit, mainly when he thought it would be appropriate to sit across from me as I ate my breakfast trying to negotiate a deal. This made me slightly uncomfortable but I didn’t have the heart to tell him to go away, though I didn’t do much to suppress how cranky I was. After wolfing down my meal in order to escape, I told him I would hire him for the day for no more than $8 (as this is a fair price). He wanted $15. Once I had enough, I told him he could think about it, and went up to my room to get ready. Knowing I would not spend another night in the Sunday guesthouse, I checked out, grabbed my things and met the driver outside. He was standing by a motorbike. I took one look at it and said “Where is the tuk tuk? I am not getting on that thing”, fellow tuk tuk drivers smiled and egged me on, “No problem” they would say. The driver took my bag from me, set it on the bike and told me to climb on. To help persuade me, he said “no time” explaining that if I wanted to make it to all of the places I wanted to see, a tuk tuk would be too slow. This indicated to me that it would be a fast ride. Finally he said “You never try, you never know”. An undeniable cliché and a fitting theme for my adventures in South East Asia. So I climbed on the back and we were on our way. The first 10 minutes were terrifying, but I liked the adrenaline rush. Weaving in and out of trucks and tuk tuks, dodging other motorcycles – traffic rules are non-existent in Phnom Penh, but this only seemed to contribute to the thrill.
The first stop was the Killing Fields. I walked through the gates to see a large stupa straight ahead, this stupa housed the bones of the tens of thousands of victims of the Khmer Rouge genocide. Inside it, 17 floors of skulls, bones and the clothes that were excavated after the genocide. Behind glass panes that were left open, laid the skulls of innocent Cambodians that were subjected to ruthless torture before being killed. Nearly all of them cracked, many with broken jaws, and each one displaying evidence of being severely beaten. I stood there completely overwhelmed. I felt shocked, slightly winded, and just appalled. Standing inside the stupa I wanted to cry, I wanted to scream, I wanted to condemn humanity for the fact that such atrocities are even possible; and for what? My jaw dropped when I stopped to examinem in disgust, the tree against which infants and children were beat to death as a measure to prevent them from ever seeking revenge against the Khmer Rouge. My thoughts raced as I walked over the rags, teeth and bone fragments of the victims and passed by mass graves. It was truly sickening. While I walked slowly and full of emotion, my mind continuously tried to sort through words that might make sense of what I was feeling; words to capture the experience; I felt entirely speechless. There are no words to describe this experience. It was heart wrenching. completely devastating. It was raw.
The next stop was the Tuol Sleng museum (S-21). Once a school, transformed into a prison, now a museum revealing the atrocities committed for the sake of political revolution. The feeling was disturbing and eerie as I walked in and out of the tiny cells where helpless prisoners were chained and confined. I spent a few minutes in a cell trying to fathom what prisoners must have been feeling – but it was hard to imagine. In this concrete cell so small I could not even spread my arms; someone was once confined for an extended period of time, left there to tremble in chains and in fear, wondering about their loved ones, and wondering when they would die. Speechless.
It was a sombre day of observing perhaps the darkest part of Cambodian history, but I felt it was important to educate myself. Often tourists visit Cambodia to casually stroll through Angkor Wat and appreciate the ancient elegance of the ruins but I think it is important that if one actually wants to learn about Cambodia, they ought to acknowledge all aspects crucial to its history.
That evening I met a new friend, Dan just before I would leave for Vietnam. He’s by far one of the most genuine people I have ever met with a fascinating story; a charming guy that I learned a lot from. We got to talking philosophy and as it turned out, we share fairly similar views on life. After some of the most intellectually stimulating conversations I’ve had in a long time it was time for me to move on. Though I could have spent hours just sitting around and philosophizing some more over drinks, I had to get going – but I was happy to make a new friend.
Finally, I had seen what I came to see in Phnom Penh and was ready to catch a bus to Vietnam. I knew I had so much more to see in Vietnam and was so excited that I couldn't wait any longer. I would start in the South and work my way up North; beginning in Hochi Minh City (also known as Saigon), and making some stops along the way up to Hanoi from where I would depart back to Tokyo for a final farewell. Another country and another adventure, for another blog.
xo
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Friday, August 13, 2010
Cambodia
Here I am snacking on some delicious apple pie by the riverside in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. This is the first chance I've had to write in a while, so I will do my best to give a thorough update of my latest adventures.
I wrapped up my stay in Thailand with a mini vacation - a three day getaway in the area of Prachuap, right by the ocean. Jeab and I rode along with a couple of her friends for the first part of the 9 hr trip, after a lengthy car ride and two bus rides we were finally there. One of these bus rides involved a near death experience when a truck pulled out in front of our bus, and we swerved (nearly tipping) missing the end of a this truck by about 6 inches. My heart stopped, as everyone on the bus gasped in sync - the girl beside me even grabbed my arm, sure that she was about to die. I sat in terror for the remaining hour and half of the trip. It was quite traumatic, but I am alive and well. (I thank my lucky Buddha necklace). Jeab has friends in Prachuap, so for a fair price, we were able to rent their car to get around in for the few days we spent there. It worked out well and was extremely convenient for getting to some nearby sights. We pulled up the the "resort" and I must say, it was not quite what I was expecting; but palacial in comparison to other areas. It did have an ocean view, but the room did not resemble the pictures I had seen online. Overall, it worked out to be great mainly because there were no bugs or lizards in the room. I had been used to overheating at night as I hid under blankets from blood thirsty mosquitos, and being woken up occasionally by the loud croaks of lizards running around. The lemon grass incense proved to be somewhat effective, but the fan also blew the potent smell into my face which caused it to burn my eyes, and sting my nostrils (similar to the affects of the pollution in Bangkok). Additionally, my room had a large bed, and air conditioner. The room was frigid, and I didn't know how to change the settings, but I dealt with it. I turned on the TV figuring I would be watching some Thai drama before bed, and was surprised to find a channel playing "Three Men and a Baby", in English! (I hadn't seen, let alone watched English television in over 4 months) So I was pretty thrilled. The room wasn't exactly what I was hoping for, but said little pleasures added up to make it a great stay, and well worth the nine hour trip to get there.
The first day was spent at the beach where I roasted in the sun, splashed around in the ocean, and then laid around reading some Nietzsche. After lunch, the clouds rolled in and down came the rain. This was my only chance to get to the beach for the rest of our stay, but I wasn't too bothered by the crumby weather since we managed to find other ways to pass our time - including a pedicure (for $1.00 !). Later that day we decided to switch hotels, and landed ourselves at a lovely and brand new place. It was a major upgrade to say the least. The rooms were divded into individual cabins, pristine, and comfortable, with air conditioner, nice washrooms (showers with heated water) and a flat screen TV (the English channel was "Fashion TV"). The hotel was so nice that Jeab offered to stay an extra night, needless to say I graciously accepted. That night we met up with a few of her friends for drinks. The pub atmosphere was cool, and there was a live band that played some familiar hits in English. I could only handle one (giant) Heineken. Unable to indulge too much because I was exhausted, in pain (due to sun burn), and coming down with a cold. Though I was in no mood to party, I was happy to hangout with Jeab and her friends (she seems to know people all over the place; a popular lady).
The next morning, my illness was full blown, made obvious by a nasty cough. Jeab insisted that we go to the hospital first thing in the morning. I was hesitant at first, but it so happens that her friend is a nurse in Prachuap, and she promised it would be a quick visit. I knew she was concerned for me, so I agreed to get things checked out, afterall, it couldn't hurt. Sure enough, I left there with antibiotics intended to treat 'Acute Pharyngitis'. I gathered this was a repercussion of the filth, dust, and pollution of Thailand (in particular the frequent trips to Bangkok). I was a bit shocked to see that the hospital was so dirty, the floors were brown with grime. At least one hundred patients were waiting around to be seen (though due to my connections, I was seen right away, as promised). In the end, it was neat to have a 'Thai hospital' experience, and admittedly, I would not be bothered had I not been under the care of my pseudo mother, Jeab.
As for an update on my health status - the antibiotics have done absolutely nothing for me, and weeks later, I have the same cough. I think my body is just irritated in general and expect it will only subside once I get home.
Well, the weather was rainy so the morning was laid back. After paying a visit to the doctor, I ate and went back to our nice hotel for a nap. In spite of the weather that day, I was still keen on getting to the massive golden buddha overlooking the sea and the nearby Ban Krut temple (possibly the most extravagent temple I've ever laid eyes on). After the temple, Jeab took me to get my very first Thai massage; yet another experience in and of itself (one hour for just $7). In case you're wondering, it was a mixture of ticklish and excrutiating. One minute I would burst out laughing so hard I was crying, and the next...I was nearly crying due to pain. There were times when I thought she was trying to kill me via pressure points. I could have sworn I would exit that place in a wheelchair, but as it turned out I left feeling great (somewhat like a soft noodle). As for what I learned from this experience: a Thai massage is not for those with a low pain tolerance (nor for those whom have eaten just prior, or those looking for a relaxing massage) and secondly, I discovered that it is extremely difficult to pry ones muscles from their bones using bare hands (believe me, this lady tried her hardest). The verdict: a good experience, and it would be a crime to leave Thailand without having received the infamous Thai massage.
The next day involved more sleep and a six hour train ride back to Bangkok. One train, one van, and two cab rides later I was back at my Thailand 'home' in Chachoengsao. With so much more left to see, I decided it was time to move on to the next country; but before heading to Cambodia, I made sure I got my hands on a Vietnam visa (which would make my life much easier down the road). With Jeab's help I picked up my Vietnam visa within just a few hours of applying. Visa in hand, I was feeling eager to checkout Cambodia, I threw some plans together quickly - booked a flight to Cambodia to get there fast, and for $253 it was the most expensive one hour flight of my life. Jeab was extremely worried about me going to Cambodia alone (actually urging me not to go everytime I mentioned it), even her mother who would phone Jeab every once in a while to check on me (from Tokyo) would tell me that Cambodia is too dangerous to travel alone. Well, I had to make the call, and in fear that I would regret the decision not to go - I went. Jeab dropped me at the airport, and we said our goodbyes. It took a lot for me to hold back some tears. How do you thank someone who completely changed your life? Well, I bowed with the 'wai' (hands in prayer position) and said "kop khun ka" ('thank you' in Thai) and walked through the departure gates. I will never forget her. I don't think she will ever truly understand how much she'd done for me, and without any real means of returning the favour, I've decided that I will just have to 'pay it forward' and hope that one day I can do for someone what Jeab has done for me.
I can honestly say that I knew I was going to like Cambodia the minute I landed. Though the pickup by my guest house I had arranged via e-mail fell through, I was lucky enough to grab a free ride from a nice man I met at the airport. My plan was to spend a few days in Siem Reap, then head to Phnom Penh. The first night I spent hanging around my guest house since I was a bit scared to venture out alone. In the morning I walked around to find the Old Market, where I got my first taste of the haggling and bold, persistent sales attempts of the locals. I bought just a few things as I tried to get the hang of bargaining; since then I have more or less mastered it. Thankfully I met two nice girls from Singapore the next day, with whom I spent the next four days in Siem Reap. Siem Reap is absolutely gorgeous. A small province of Cambodia, which is the home of the lovely ruins of Angkor Wat and surrounding remains of temples. The girls (Layla & Fran) and I arranged to get our passes for Angkor Wat the next day. We decided on a one day pass (the alternatives being three day, or one week), but if purchased after 5pm, entrance to see the sunset is free (meaning you sort of get a day and a half). So we went to see the sunset the night before we would spend the next day getting around to most of the ruins. I must admit, the sunset wasn't overly impressive; just subpar. Not as bright or colourful as I was expecting - but pretty nonetheless. However, the 'real deal' was scheduled for 4am the next morning, when we would show up to get the best seats to view the sunrise behind Angkor Wat. (Approximately 300 tourists show up to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat every morning). Well, we were a bit too eager, and were certainly the first people there. That being said, we had our pick of the very best spot. In exchange for purchasing a coffee, we were set up with some chairs to sit and enjoy the sunrise. It was quite nice. We sat in the most popular place, across from a pond to see the reflection of Angkor in the water. I got to play with the settings on my camera, and believe that I captured some postcard worthy shots of the famous sunrise over Angkor Wat. Although it was no match for the sunrise from Mt.Fuji, it was still nice. Once the sun was up, it was time for a (very) long day of temple viewing. We roamed around the famous temples literally from dawn until dusk. The first thing we did after the sunrise was head over to the 'Angkor Balloon', to board a hot air balloon that rises over Angkor; the weather was too hazy to get a clear shot, but it was cool to have my very first hot air balloon experience. From checking out Angkor Wat we went to the gates of Angkor Thom, then Thet Bayon (and surrounds), and Ta Phrom - my favourite (where scenes from Indiana Jones and Tomb Raider were filmed), followed by Banteay Srei, Banteay Kdei, and Srah Srang (a lake which once served as the bathing place for royalty). After a full day of ruins, I don't think I would have been able to handle another minute of it. Don't get me wrong, they are extremely fascinating and lovely pieces of Cambodian history - but after a long day of seeing many of them, they start to look "same same, but different". The blazing sun and lack of shade are a lethal combination which made it a rather tiring experience. All that to say, if you're ever in the area - treat yourself to a stop in this wonderful country and don't miss out on Angkor Wat. Oh, and the sunrise is definitely worth waking up for!
On my third day in Siem Reap, the girls and I made yet another trip to the Old Market. I quickly watched and learned as these more experienced travelers bargained hard for paintings, clothes, and some beautiful sterling silver jewelery. Once I caught on, I scored myself some great deals, and couldn't stop. So if you ever get to the markets in Cambodia, consider yourself warned. Bargaining actually becomes a fun and playful interaction with the locals. Although there is no doubt that they would like to squeeze every last cent out of you, they are definitely some of the most smiley and friendly people. Once you get the hang of it, it becomes a game of the best deals you can get - and before you know it - you're broke. After the market we went to a popular bakery called "The Blue Pumpkin" - definitely a place to try if you ever get to Cambodia. Amazing. We made a few trips to this place over the few days we spent in Siem Reap. Near the 'Blue Pumpkin' was a spa with the "Dr. Fish Foot Massage" that I felt obligated to try. Three dollars for twenty minutes of my feet getting nibbled on by hungry fish, doing a decent job of removing my dead skin cells. The first few minutes was insanely ticklish, but once I got used to it, I sat there in awe of the 50 fish nibbling away at my feet. Then we cruised down to Pub St. (a popular area for tourists) and true to its name, it is full of pubs with the cheapest drinks you'll find (i.e. 50 cent beer etc.).
That night the girls discovered a new guest house just down the street, which was much better than the one we had been staying at. It was awesome. For just a few dollars more, there was a complimentary 20 minute massage, free bottled water daily, free tea and/or coffee and free bananas in the restaurant. The rooms were clean and decorative, and the wifi connection was much stronger in the rooms. It had a restaurant with great food and a nice garden surrounding the entrance with hammocks to kick back in. We spent the rest of our time here. This is where I discovered how delightful (and relaxing) a traditional Khmer massage is. An hour long massage was just $3, and so we had a couple of these during our stay. After waking up and receiving our massage, we searched for a mosque for Layla since it was the first day of Ramadan. Around the mosque we had an encounter with the most adorable children I have ever seen. We picked up some snacks for them and then sat to play around for a while, snapping their picture - they couldn't get enough of the attention. They loved seeing their image on the camera screen. These sweet children might have been between 3 and 6 years old, with wide brown eyes and the biggest smiles you'll ever see - I completely understood why Angelina Jolie chose to adopt. Cambodian children are a superhuman kind of cute, every single one of them; I wanted to just put them in my pocket and take them all home with me. Maybe next time...
After making a trip to the mosque we went to check out Wat Bo. It's a pretty small temple, with a really old feel to it, in contrast with some of the more polished temples I'd seen in Thailand. Later we gravitated back to the Old Market to engage in some more bargaining over jewelery. For dinner that evening Fran and I joined Layla and the small Muslim community for dinner at the mosque after dusk. We were welcomed and served by the head of the Muslim community in Siem Reap. They were extremely nice and very hospitable; there was something that really struck me about being invited to partake in a Muslim celebration, accepted as an equal, in spite of the obvious difference in religious beliefs. The food was good, and the experience was exceptional. This would be my last dinner with Layla and Fran before they would head back to Singapore. After dinner we made one last trip to our favourite place "The Blue Pumpkin" and went back to our guest house to nap and have our last Khmer massage before bed. Then we said our goodbyes and I was off to Phnom Penh the next morning.
Phnom Penh was an entirely new adventure that I will have to save for another blog...
I wrapped up my stay in Thailand with a mini vacation - a three day getaway in the area of Prachuap, right by the ocean. Jeab and I rode along with a couple of her friends for the first part of the 9 hr trip, after a lengthy car ride and two bus rides we were finally there. One of these bus rides involved a near death experience when a truck pulled out in front of our bus, and we swerved (nearly tipping) missing the end of a this truck by about 6 inches. My heart stopped, as everyone on the bus gasped in sync - the girl beside me even grabbed my arm, sure that she was about to die. I sat in terror for the remaining hour and half of the trip. It was quite traumatic, but I am alive and well. (I thank my lucky Buddha necklace). Jeab has friends in Prachuap, so for a fair price, we were able to rent their car to get around in for the few days we spent there. It worked out well and was extremely convenient for getting to some nearby sights. We pulled up the the "resort" and I must say, it was not quite what I was expecting; but palacial in comparison to other areas. It did have an ocean view, but the room did not resemble the pictures I had seen online. Overall, it worked out to be great mainly because there were no bugs or lizards in the room. I had been used to overheating at night as I hid under blankets from blood thirsty mosquitos, and being woken up occasionally by the loud croaks of lizards running around. The lemon grass incense proved to be somewhat effective, but the fan also blew the potent smell into my face which caused it to burn my eyes, and sting my nostrils (similar to the affects of the pollution in Bangkok). Additionally, my room had a large bed, and air conditioner. The room was frigid, and I didn't know how to change the settings, but I dealt with it. I turned on the TV figuring I would be watching some Thai drama before bed, and was surprised to find a channel playing "Three Men and a Baby", in English! (I hadn't seen, let alone watched English television in over 4 months) So I was pretty thrilled. The room wasn't exactly what I was hoping for, but said little pleasures added up to make it a great stay, and well worth the nine hour trip to get there.
The first day was spent at the beach where I roasted in the sun, splashed around in the ocean, and then laid around reading some Nietzsche. After lunch, the clouds rolled in and down came the rain. This was my only chance to get to the beach for the rest of our stay, but I wasn't too bothered by the crumby weather since we managed to find other ways to pass our time - including a pedicure (for $1.00 !). Later that day we decided to switch hotels, and landed ourselves at a lovely and brand new place. It was a major upgrade to say the least. The rooms were divded into individual cabins, pristine, and comfortable, with air conditioner, nice washrooms (showers with heated water) and a flat screen TV (the English channel was "Fashion TV"). The hotel was so nice that Jeab offered to stay an extra night, needless to say I graciously accepted. That night we met up with a few of her friends for drinks. The pub atmosphere was cool, and there was a live band that played some familiar hits in English. I could only handle one (giant) Heineken. Unable to indulge too much because I was exhausted, in pain (due to sun burn), and coming down with a cold. Though I was in no mood to party, I was happy to hangout with Jeab and her friends (she seems to know people all over the place; a popular lady).
The next morning, my illness was full blown, made obvious by a nasty cough. Jeab insisted that we go to the hospital first thing in the morning. I was hesitant at first, but it so happens that her friend is a nurse in Prachuap, and she promised it would be a quick visit. I knew she was concerned for me, so I agreed to get things checked out, afterall, it couldn't hurt. Sure enough, I left there with antibiotics intended to treat 'Acute Pharyngitis'. I gathered this was a repercussion of the filth, dust, and pollution of Thailand (in particular the frequent trips to Bangkok). I was a bit shocked to see that the hospital was so dirty, the floors were brown with grime. At least one hundred patients were waiting around to be seen (though due to my connections, I was seen right away, as promised). In the end, it was neat to have a 'Thai hospital' experience, and admittedly, I would not be bothered had I not been under the care of my pseudo mother, Jeab.
As for an update on my health status - the antibiotics have done absolutely nothing for me, and weeks later, I have the same cough. I think my body is just irritated in general and expect it will only subside once I get home.
Well, the weather was rainy so the morning was laid back. After paying a visit to the doctor, I ate and went back to our nice hotel for a nap. In spite of the weather that day, I was still keen on getting to the massive golden buddha overlooking the sea and the nearby Ban Krut temple (possibly the most extravagent temple I've ever laid eyes on). After the temple, Jeab took me to get my very first Thai massage; yet another experience in and of itself (one hour for just $7). In case you're wondering, it was a mixture of ticklish and excrutiating. One minute I would burst out laughing so hard I was crying, and the next...I was nearly crying due to pain. There were times when I thought she was trying to kill me via pressure points. I could have sworn I would exit that place in a wheelchair, but as it turned out I left feeling great (somewhat like a soft noodle). As for what I learned from this experience: a Thai massage is not for those with a low pain tolerance (nor for those whom have eaten just prior, or those looking for a relaxing massage) and secondly, I discovered that it is extremely difficult to pry ones muscles from their bones using bare hands (believe me, this lady tried her hardest). The verdict: a good experience, and it would be a crime to leave Thailand without having received the infamous Thai massage.
The next day involved more sleep and a six hour train ride back to Bangkok. One train, one van, and two cab rides later I was back at my Thailand 'home' in Chachoengsao. With so much more left to see, I decided it was time to move on to the next country; but before heading to Cambodia, I made sure I got my hands on a Vietnam visa (which would make my life much easier down the road). With Jeab's help I picked up my Vietnam visa within just a few hours of applying. Visa in hand, I was feeling eager to checkout Cambodia, I threw some plans together quickly - booked a flight to Cambodia to get there fast, and for $253 it was the most expensive one hour flight of my life. Jeab was extremely worried about me going to Cambodia alone (actually urging me not to go everytime I mentioned it), even her mother who would phone Jeab every once in a while to check on me (from Tokyo) would tell me that Cambodia is too dangerous to travel alone. Well, I had to make the call, and in fear that I would regret the decision not to go - I went. Jeab dropped me at the airport, and we said our goodbyes. It took a lot for me to hold back some tears. How do you thank someone who completely changed your life? Well, I bowed with the 'wai' (hands in prayer position) and said "kop khun ka" ('thank you' in Thai) and walked through the departure gates. I will never forget her. I don't think she will ever truly understand how much she'd done for me, and without any real means of returning the favour, I've decided that I will just have to 'pay it forward' and hope that one day I can do for someone what Jeab has done for me.
I can honestly say that I knew I was going to like Cambodia the minute I landed. Though the pickup by my guest house I had arranged via e-mail fell through, I was lucky enough to grab a free ride from a nice man I met at the airport. My plan was to spend a few days in Siem Reap, then head to Phnom Penh. The first night I spent hanging around my guest house since I was a bit scared to venture out alone. In the morning I walked around to find the Old Market, where I got my first taste of the haggling and bold, persistent sales attempts of the locals. I bought just a few things as I tried to get the hang of bargaining; since then I have more or less mastered it. Thankfully I met two nice girls from Singapore the next day, with whom I spent the next four days in Siem Reap. Siem Reap is absolutely gorgeous. A small province of Cambodia, which is the home of the lovely ruins of Angkor Wat and surrounding remains of temples. The girls (Layla & Fran) and I arranged to get our passes for Angkor Wat the next day. We decided on a one day pass (the alternatives being three day, or one week), but if purchased after 5pm, entrance to see the sunset is free (meaning you sort of get a day and a half). So we went to see the sunset the night before we would spend the next day getting around to most of the ruins. I must admit, the sunset wasn't overly impressive; just subpar. Not as bright or colourful as I was expecting - but pretty nonetheless. However, the 'real deal' was scheduled for 4am the next morning, when we would show up to get the best seats to view the sunrise behind Angkor Wat. (Approximately 300 tourists show up to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat every morning). Well, we were a bit too eager, and were certainly the first people there. That being said, we had our pick of the very best spot. In exchange for purchasing a coffee, we were set up with some chairs to sit and enjoy the sunrise. It was quite nice. We sat in the most popular place, across from a pond to see the reflection of Angkor in the water. I got to play with the settings on my camera, and believe that I captured some postcard worthy shots of the famous sunrise over Angkor Wat. Although it was no match for the sunrise from Mt.Fuji, it was still nice. Once the sun was up, it was time for a (very) long day of temple viewing. We roamed around the famous temples literally from dawn until dusk. The first thing we did after the sunrise was head over to the 'Angkor Balloon', to board a hot air balloon that rises over Angkor; the weather was too hazy to get a clear shot, but it was cool to have my very first hot air balloon experience. From checking out Angkor Wat we went to the gates of Angkor Thom, then Thet Bayon (and surrounds), and Ta Phrom - my favourite (where scenes from Indiana Jones and Tomb Raider were filmed), followed by Banteay Srei, Banteay Kdei, and Srah Srang (a lake which once served as the bathing place for royalty). After a full day of ruins, I don't think I would have been able to handle another minute of it. Don't get me wrong, they are extremely fascinating and lovely pieces of Cambodian history - but after a long day of seeing many of them, they start to look "same same, but different". The blazing sun and lack of shade are a lethal combination which made it a rather tiring experience. All that to say, if you're ever in the area - treat yourself to a stop in this wonderful country and don't miss out on Angkor Wat. Oh, and the sunrise is definitely worth waking up for!
On my third day in Siem Reap, the girls and I made yet another trip to the Old Market. I quickly watched and learned as these more experienced travelers bargained hard for paintings, clothes, and some beautiful sterling silver jewelery. Once I caught on, I scored myself some great deals, and couldn't stop. So if you ever get to the markets in Cambodia, consider yourself warned. Bargaining actually becomes a fun and playful interaction with the locals. Although there is no doubt that they would like to squeeze every last cent out of you, they are definitely some of the most smiley and friendly people. Once you get the hang of it, it becomes a game of the best deals you can get - and before you know it - you're broke. After the market we went to a popular bakery called "The Blue Pumpkin" - definitely a place to try if you ever get to Cambodia. Amazing. We made a few trips to this place over the few days we spent in Siem Reap. Near the 'Blue Pumpkin' was a spa with the "Dr. Fish Foot Massage" that I felt obligated to try. Three dollars for twenty minutes of my feet getting nibbled on by hungry fish, doing a decent job of removing my dead skin cells. The first few minutes was insanely ticklish, but once I got used to it, I sat there in awe of the 50 fish nibbling away at my feet. Then we cruised down to Pub St. (a popular area for tourists) and true to its name, it is full of pubs with the cheapest drinks you'll find (i.e. 50 cent beer etc.).
That night the girls discovered a new guest house just down the street, which was much better than the one we had been staying at. It was awesome. For just a few dollars more, there was a complimentary 20 minute massage, free bottled water daily, free tea and/or coffee and free bananas in the restaurant. The rooms were clean and decorative, and the wifi connection was much stronger in the rooms. It had a restaurant with great food and a nice garden surrounding the entrance with hammocks to kick back in. We spent the rest of our time here. This is where I discovered how delightful (and relaxing) a traditional Khmer massage is. An hour long massage was just $3, and so we had a couple of these during our stay. After waking up and receiving our massage, we searched for a mosque for Layla since it was the first day of Ramadan. Around the mosque we had an encounter with the most adorable children I have ever seen. We picked up some snacks for them and then sat to play around for a while, snapping their picture - they couldn't get enough of the attention. They loved seeing their image on the camera screen. These sweet children might have been between 3 and 6 years old, with wide brown eyes and the biggest smiles you'll ever see - I completely understood why Angelina Jolie chose to adopt. Cambodian children are a superhuman kind of cute, every single one of them; I wanted to just put them in my pocket and take them all home with me. Maybe next time...
After making a trip to the mosque we went to check out Wat Bo. It's a pretty small temple, with a really old feel to it, in contrast with some of the more polished temples I'd seen in Thailand. Later we gravitated back to the Old Market to engage in some more bargaining over jewelery. For dinner that evening Fran and I joined Layla and the small Muslim community for dinner at the mosque after dusk. We were welcomed and served by the head of the Muslim community in Siem Reap. They were extremely nice and very hospitable; there was something that really struck me about being invited to partake in a Muslim celebration, accepted as an equal, in spite of the obvious difference in religious beliefs. The food was good, and the experience was exceptional. This would be my last dinner with Layla and Fran before they would head back to Singapore. After dinner we made one last trip to our favourite place "The Blue Pumpkin" and went back to our guest house to nap and have our last Khmer massage before bed. Then we said our goodbyes and I was off to Phnom Penh the next morning.
Phnom Penh was an entirely new adventure that I will have to save for another blog...
Sunday, August 1, 2010
Serendipity in a Small World
So much has happened since I last wrote. For starters, I am now in Thailand and have already been here for 6 days. With no real plans but to fill a backpack and travel around South East Asia starting with Thailand, fate certainly had some things in store for me. It all began with a rather serendipitous string of events, when my mom's colleague's sister who lives in Tokyo kindly allowed me to keep my luggage at her place as I traveled around for five weeks. When she noticed there was a gap between my move-out date and flight departure, she thoughtfully offered me a place to stay. Being on a tight budget, I took her up on this offer. Soon after I met her maid Khamun, who is Thai. When she heard of my plans to travel to Thailand alone, she insisted that I stay at her home in Chachoengsao where her daughter can look after me. Well, long story short, after an amazing couple of days spent with the Martins at their cottage in Shimoda, Japan, I was met at the airport by Jeab (Kamun's daughter) whom I have been living with for the past five days. And so my adventures in Thailand had begun...
To be frank, the transition from one of the world's most clean and safe countries (Japan) to the complete opposite end of the spectrum (Thailand) was not easy for me. This has been my first genuine taste of 'culture shock'. I am not sure what I was expecting exactly, but I felt overwhelmed by the filth and pollution. The 'dirty' streets of downtown Ottawa do not even compare to piles of trash, and the stench of polluted air. Japan was hot - Thailand is hotter. I've been sad to see so many hungry and diseased dogs and cats. When we arrived at Jeab's home, I was amazed at the size. I soon realized that the large size is because Thai people generally live with their entire family (great aunts and uncles included), the whole shabang. She showed me my room for the night, a small room with screening on the windows, and a screen door to keep the bugs out. I was quite relieved by this, since I had seen the largest bugs (beetles the size of my palm), and the most lizards I had ever seen in my life within the first ten minutes of my arrival.
I set my things down, and Jeab asked if I would like to take a bath. This sounded like a good idea. Well, the bath was a drainless tub of filthy water. For the first time in my life I think I came out of a bath more dirty than when I got in. I am not sure how long it had been sitting there, or how many people bathed in it before me but the thick layer of sludge sitting at the bottom indicated to me that the water wasn't so clean (it was black.) Without a shower, I used bowls that were set out, to dump this water all over my body and in my hair to bathe - stirring the scum that sat at the bottom of the tub. While the dirty bath water was quite disconcerting, I was more distracted by frantically looking around for creepy crawlies. After my bath, it was time for bed...I did not sleep a wink. Tossing and turning, listening to the loud croaking of lizards and scanning the dark room for various insects. Thankfully I was going to have an early start to my day to visit the local temple at 7am.
When I arrived, Jeab asked if I would like to go to a temple with her early in the morning. Jeab speaks very little English, just a few words here and there that I sometimes manage to piece together; otherwise we rely on a dictionary and Google Translator to communicate. Initially, it was my understanding that she would just show me the temple, where I would observe as a tourist. We arrived at the temple after picking up her son and her aunt, and I when we entered, I learned that I was not there to take pictures. Jeab handed me incense, a candle, and a flower, then she opened the dictionary and pointed at the words "follow" and "worship". I was honoured to be invited to pray with her and her family. I lit the candle and stood it with the rest, then I lit the insence and knelt down beside Jeab, following her actions. After she led me over to leave food out for the gods. Each bowl got a spoon full of steamed rice, and each cup got an ounce or so of water. I was amazed at how Thais of this strain of Buddhism go to such lengths to leave food for the spirits (steamed rice, fresh fruit, bottled water). It was after this first experience at the temple that I knew my stay in Thailand would be a valuable one; by living with a local, I was stepping beyond the restricted perspective of a tourist.
Jeab treats me like her own daughter. There are no words to describe this kind of hospitality; she goes above and beyond being a mere hostess. She bends over backwards for me regularly, doing anything and everything she can for me. Some of the only English she knows (and which I hear the most) are the words "You okay?" or "You happy?" - voicing her primary concerns. She has given me her own bed, insisting that she sleep on the couch; she brings me food when she can - she wants me to try everything (she won't let me just stick to eating Pad Thai); the front seat of the car is saved for me; when she takes me shopping she will make sure I do not get ripped off and bargains on my behalf; after I make a purchase she will carry the bags for me saying "I help you"...she even holds my hand when we cross the street. If there is anything I need or want done, she does her best to make sure it happens - and for all of this, she only asks that I pay for the gas in her car as she drives hours to get me where I want to go. I have never met someone so selfless. She welcomed me (a foreign stranger) into her home, and has allowed me these experiences that will, without a doubt, leave me a changed person.
In Chachoengsao (where I live with Jeab) I am, without exageration, the only white person in the area. While people in Japan used to look at me quite a bit, the attention was far different from that which I have been receiving in Thailand. Here, people point at me, not just children, but parents will point me out to their children. Unlike the more reserved and timid Japanese, Thai locals will blatantly stare at me - usually with a smile though. It is hard for me to discern whether they are mocking me or not. Even when sitting with Jeab and her friends, they make it obvious that they are talking about me by gesturing and pointing at me, occasionally laughing together, and I have not a clue what they are saying. After a few days, I became used to this more forward attention, sometimes I find it amusing; but it does keep me guessing at what people are thinking of me. When I think about it, I sort of miss speaking English to people; this is one difference of living as the only foreigner with locals in Thailand (as opposed to staying in a hostel with fellow backpackers). Many things took me a few days to adjust to, but one thing I continue to struggle with are the bug bites. I am having some rather interesting reactions to the mosquitos here - the mosquitos that ruthlessly continue to eat me alive. Some bites just swell a lot, others bruise, and the worst of them blister. It's no fun - but I consider it a sacrifice for precious time spent traveling in South East Asia.
On a brighter note, I will attempt to summarize some of the highlights of my recent adventures in Thailand:
Day 1: The temple at 7am.Klong Saun Old Market (where Jeab sells watches on weekends and holidays), first meal: Pad Thai (delicious!), seeing a boy and his elephant walking around a market near the temple, going to another temple that night to worship (it was a special holiday in Thailand - the full moon that marks the beginning of the rainy season). Worship involved the traditional lighting of the candle, and incense, carrying a flower and then doing three laps around the temple.
Day 2: Bangkok. Went to Wat Pho temple, and paid a visit to the sleeping Buddha. Did some shopping in the market (took my first ride in a tuk tuk to get there). Back to Chachoengsao for a Pad Thai dinner. Went back to Bangkok that night to accompany Jeab and her uncle as they looked for trees that were on sale (Jeab's uncle and grandmother sell trees in the market).
Day 3: Ayutthaya. My favourite part of Thailand so far. It's gorgeous. There is a lively feel to the area that surround the ancient ruins of Wat Chaiwatthanaram which I took a tour of via elephant (my first elephant ride). [Did I mention I have a new favourite animal?...] Elephants are perhaps the most adorable creatures in this world.
Day 4: Chonburi. A trip to the zoo! (Khao Kheow open zoo). The best part of that day was definitely sitting and holding hands with an orangutan! Not an animal unique to Thailand, but super cute nonetheless. After the zoo we drove down to the seaside where we just relaxed and ate dinner right by the ocean. Here, I indulged in my first Thai (foot and leg) massage; so good.
The last couple of days have involved relaxing, frequent trips to the mall/market, and of course - amazing (authentic) Thai meals; one of which we spent dining by the river. The sunset behind large fluffly clouds was extraordinary. Tomorrow Jeab and I leave for a lovely looking resort in Prachuap (aka. Beach lovers paradise). According to Jeab, the beaches are awesome, and less crowded since they aren't in a touristy area - should be relaxing. I figured if I am going to travel around Thailand, I might as well treat myself and get a taste of all aspects (the rougher spots, the touristy sights and the vacation getaway). Treating Jeab to a stay at this resort with me is truly the least I could do. Prachuap is roughly 8-9 hrs from Chachoengsao. While most of our time will be spent hanging out at the beach, we plan to take a detour on the way to checkout a palace and a nearby temple.
Once we return from our mini vacation, my priority will be getting my hands on a Vietnam visa (so I don't have to worry about tackling this myself from Cambodia), and then planning some of the details for my trip to Cambodia. Ideally I would like to spend a week there, but those plans are all still in the making. However, right now, I just need to concern myself with lounging on one of Thailand's most treasured beaches. Should be a treat.
There is still so much to see, and I will do my best to document my adventures! (Though it's hard to put a lot of these experiences into words). I must say, it is such an odd feeling to be loving every new experience and every minute of traveling these parts of the world, while at the same time, counting down the days until I return home. This must be taken as a testament to the old saying: "Home is where the heart is".
I miss everyone very much!
LOVE. comin' atcha from Thailand.
xoxo
To be frank, the transition from one of the world's most clean and safe countries (Japan) to the complete opposite end of the spectrum (Thailand) was not easy for me. This has been my first genuine taste of 'culture shock'. I am not sure what I was expecting exactly, but I felt overwhelmed by the filth and pollution. The 'dirty' streets of downtown Ottawa do not even compare to piles of trash, and the stench of polluted air. Japan was hot - Thailand is hotter. I've been sad to see so many hungry and diseased dogs and cats. When we arrived at Jeab's home, I was amazed at the size. I soon realized that the large size is because Thai people generally live with their entire family (great aunts and uncles included), the whole shabang. She showed me my room for the night, a small room with screening on the windows, and a screen door to keep the bugs out. I was quite relieved by this, since I had seen the largest bugs (beetles the size of my palm), and the most lizards I had ever seen in my life within the first ten minutes of my arrival.
I set my things down, and Jeab asked if I would like to take a bath. This sounded like a good idea. Well, the bath was a drainless tub of filthy water. For the first time in my life I think I came out of a bath more dirty than when I got in. I am not sure how long it had been sitting there, or how many people bathed in it before me but the thick layer of sludge sitting at the bottom indicated to me that the water wasn't so clean (it was black.) Without a shower, I used bowls that were set out, to dump this water all over my body and in my hair to bathe - stirring the scum that sat at the bottom of the tub. While the dirty bath water was quite disconcerting, I was more distracted by frantically looking around for creepy crawlies. After my bath, it was time for bed...I did not sleep a wink. Tossing and turning, listening to the loud croaking of lizards and scanning the dark room for various insects. Thankfully I was going to have an early start to my day to visit the local temple at 7am.
When I arrived, Jeab asked if I would like to go to a temple with her early in the morning. Jeab speaks very little English, just a few words here and there that I sometimes manage to piece together; otherwise we rely on a dictionary and Google Translator to communicate. Initially, it was my understanding that she would just show me the temple, where I would observe as a tourist. We arrived at the temple after picking up her son and her aunt, and I when we entered, I learned that I was not there to take pictures. Jeab handed me incense, a candle, and a flower, then she opened the dictionary and pointed at the words "follow" and "worship". I was honoured to be invited to pray with her and her family. I lit the candle and stood it with the rest, then I lit the insence and knelt down beside Jeab, following her actions. After she led me over to leave food out for the gods. Each bowl got a spoon full of steamed rice, and each cup got an ounce or so of water. I was amazed at how Thais of this strain of Buddhism go to such lengths to leave food for the spirits (steamed rice, fresh fruit, bottled water). It was after this first experience at the temple that I knew my stay in Thailand would be a valuable one; by living with a local, I was stepping beyond the restricted perspective of a tourist.
Jeab treats me like her own daughter. There are no words to describe this kind of hospitality; she goes above and beyond being a mere hostess. She bends over backwards for me regularly, doing anything and everything she can for me. Some of the only English she knows (and which I hear the most) are the words "You okay?" or "You happy?" - voicing her primary concerns. She has given me her own bed, insisting that she sleep on the couch; she brings me food when she can - she wants me to try everything (she won't let me just stick to eating Pad Thai); the front seat of the car is saved for me; when she takes me shopping she will make sure I do not get ripped off and bargains on my behalf; after I make a purchase she will carry the bags for me saying "I help you"...she even holds my hand when we cross the street. If there is anything I need or want done, she does her best to make sure it happens - and for all of this, she only asks that I pay for the gas in her car as she drives hours to get me where I want to go. I have never met someone so selfless. She welcomed me (a foreign stranger) into her home, and has allowed me these experiences that will, without a doubt, leave me a changed person.
In Chachoengsao (where I live with Jeab) I am, without exageration, the only white person in the area. While people in Japan used to look at me quite a bit, the attention was far different from that which I have been receiving in Thailand. Here, people point at me, not just children, but parents will point me out to their children. Unlike the more reserved and timid Japanese, Thai locals will blatantly stare at me - usually with a smile though. It is hard for me to discern whether they are mocking me or not. Even when sitting with Jeab and her friends, they make it obvious that they are talking about me by gesturing and pointing at me, occasionally laughing together, and I have not a clue what they are saying. After a few days, I became used to this more forward attention, sometimes I find it amusing; but it does keep me guessing at what people are thinking of me. When I think about it, I sort of miss speaking English to people; this is one difference of living as the only foreigner with locals in Thailand (as opposed to staying in a hostel with fellow backpackers). Many things took me a few days to adjust to, but one thing I continue to struggle with are the bug bites. I am having some rather interesting reactions to the mosquitos here - the mosquitos that ruthlessly continue to eat me alive. Some bites just swell a lot, others bruise, and the worst of them blister. It's no fun - but I consider it a sacrifice for precious time spent traveling in South East Asia.
On a brighter note, I will attempt to summarize some of the highlights of my recent adventures in Thailand:
Day 1: The temple at 7am.Klong Saun Old Market (where Jeab sells watches on weekends and holidays), first meal: Pad Thai (delicious!), seeing a boy and his elephant walking around a market near the temple, going to another temple that night to worship (it was a special holiday in Thailand - the full moon that marks the beginning of the rainy season). Worship involved the traditional lighting of the candle, and incense, carrying a flower and then doing three laps around the temple.
Day 2: Bangkok. Went to Wat Pho temple, and paid a visit to the sleeping Buddha. Did some shopping in the market (took my first ride in a tuk tuk to get there). Back to Chachoengsao for a Pad Thai dinner. Went back to Bangkok that night to accompany Jeab and her uncle as they looked for trees that were on sale (Jeab's uncle and grandmother sell trees in the market).
Day 3: Ayutthaya. My favourite part of Thailand so far. It's gorgeous. There is a lively feel to the area that surround the ancient ruins of Wat Chaiwatthanaram which I took a tour of via elephant (my first elephant ride). [Did I mention I have a new favourite animal?...] Elephants are perhaps the most adorable creatures in this world.
Day 4: Chonburi. A trip to the zoo! (Khao Kheow open zoo). The best part of that day was definitely sitting and holding hands with an orangutan! Not an animal unique to Thailand, but super cute nonetheless. After the zoo we drove down to the seaside where we just relaxed and ate dinner right by the ocean. Here, I indulged in my first Thai (foot and leg) massage; so good.
The last couple of days have involved relaxing, frequent trips to the mall/market, and of course - amazing (authentic) Thai meals; one of which we spent dining by the river. The sunset behind large fluffly clouds was extraordinary. Tomorrow Jeab and I leave for a lovely looking resort in Prachuap (aka. Beach lovers paradise). According to Jeab, the beaches are awesome, and less crowded since they aren't in a touristy area - should be relaxing. I figured if I am going to travel around Thailand, I might as well treat myself and get a taste of all aspects (the rougher spots, the touristy sights and the vacation getaway). Treating Jeab to a stay at this resort with me is truly the least I could do. Prachuap is roughly 8-9 hrs from Chachoengsao. While most of our time will be spent hanging out at the beach, we plan to take a detour on the way to checkout a palace and a nearby temple.
Once we return from our mini vacation, my priority will be getting my hands on a Vietnam visa (so I don't have to worry about tackling this myself from Cambodia), and then planning some of the details for my trip to Cambodia. Ideally I would like to spend a week there, but those plans are all still in the making. However, right now, I just need to concern myself with lounging on one of Thailand's most treasured beaches. Should be a treat.
There is still so much to see, and I will do my best to document my adventures! (Though it's hard to put a lot of these experiences into words). I must say, it is such an odd feeling to be loving every new experience and every minute of traveling these parts of the world, while at the same time, counting down the days until I return home. This must be taken as a testament to the old saying: "Home is where the heart is".
I miss everyone very much!
LOVE. comin' atcha from Thailand.
xoxo
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Tory 1, Mt.Fuji 0
Well it all came together pretty fast once my original plans to climb Mt.Fuji fell through as the 4 friends I had planned to go with cancelled for various reasons. I was a bit disappointed at first, and wasn't sure what to do - I certainly wasn't about to climb by myself. Thankfully, I found out that another friend (and neighbour) of mine had plans to do the climb on Sunday night (July 17th). I jumped at the opportunity asking if it would be okay for me to join her and her group; soon enough the plans were confirmed (and only a few days in advance too). We met up at a station with a few others and her friend, Nao (the organizer of the climb) who would drive us to Mt.Fuji. Our group included 1 Japanese guy, 3 Japanese girls, 1 Korean girl, 1 Taiwanese guy, and my friend Pauline from France - and of course, myself...the Canadian. All packed up and ready to go, we piled into the car at around 10pm to head to the mountain. About an hour and a half later we were driving through the forest coming up to the base of Mt.Fuji. The forest is called Aokigahara, aka. the forest of the dead; said to be haunted and stands as the second most popular location for suicides in the world (next to the Golden Gate Bridge). Although I do not believe in ghosts it certainly made for an extremely spooky drive - I started to feel as though I was in some sort of horror movie. But I digress, all discomforting thoughts were cleared as we arrived at our destination.
As I looked around at fellow climbers preparing to head up the mountain, I quickly began to feel ill equipped. Most climbers were Japanese, and looked as though they knew what they were doing. They had head lamps, ski poles/hiking sticks, proper hiking boots, and were dressed as though they were about to climb Mt.Everest - wearing heavy wind-breaking pants, thick parkas and even tuques. Meanwhile, I had a backpack filled with plenty of snacks and fluids, a couple of extra layers, and a flashlight. Though it was a little discouraging to see these Japanese hikers taking things so seriously - being a Canadian - I wasn't overly concerned. We gathered at the starting point, paused for a quick group photo and were on our way. And I must say....I had no idea what I was getting myself into.
I think the fact that Mt.Fuji is so often referred to as such a major tourist attraction is quite misleading; as it almost implies that climbing this 3, 776 meter (or 12 388 ft) volcano, Japan's highest mountain, is a fun or leisurely undertaking. ...it wasn't. My friends, I will not sugarcoat it...this climb was probably the most difficult thing I've ever done in my life.
So, without further adieu, here is my un-cut story, of the time I climbed Mt.Fujisan...
It was midnight and things started off just fine. Adrenaline was pumping through my veins. Everyone was excited and full of energy - an energy that would die down somewhere between the 6th and 7th station. The route we took started off with steps...nothing too strenuous. But this was only the beginning. The start of the trail is marked with a Torii gate (a Shinto shrine marking a sacred place where climbers can pause and ask for protection throughout their long and challenging ascent up the mountain). As we continued, the steps disappeared, replaced by big bolders that cluttered the path - it was then that the real climbing began. 15 minutes in and I was panting (though I am not sure what this says about my physical condition), Nao (who had climbed Mt.Fuji two years prior) assured us that this was only "the beginning of the beginning" he would say...and for a while I thought he was just being facetious. In the first hour of the climb, I was expecting we would get onto some nicely paved path with just a shallow incline that would wind up the mountain to lead us to the top. I don't know what I was thinking.
After the first hour or so we arrived at the 6th station, where a handful of people were sitting around for a rest. At each station there are little huts selling (expensive) bowls of ramen, and a selection of (over priced) drinks. The trail we had taken was a bit longer than the more popular route, which tends to get quite crowded; on this path we not only had the advatage of less crowds but also a clear sight of the starry night sky from any point along the way. This turned out to be an excellent choice, since we had started too late to see the sunrise from the summit. I was more than happy to see the sunrise from about 2/3 of the way up the mountain - we had an excellent view, and didn't feel rushed for the rest of the climb (Traditionally people climb Mt.Fuji at night aiming to watch the sunrise from the summit). I should add that it was a gorgeous night, and the perfect weather. Needless to say the sunrise was absolutely breathtaking. By far the most beautiful sight I have ever seen. After snapping multiple photographs of the view it was time to keep moving up.
The trail was marked with some signs along the way, directing us toward the next station. The biggest disappointment however, was learning that for each station, there was an 'original' station. So for example, after leaving station 6, we encountered a sign telling us we were about an hour away from the 'original 6th station'. And this continued throughout the entire climb. Each pseudo station, had its respective 'original' station - all I can say is...whoever posted these signs must have had a great sense of humour. Furthermore, there seemed to be the occasional time quote discrepancy, where one sign would say '50 minutes' to the next station, and the next would estimate '80 minutes' to the next station.
Well, getting to the 8th station was grueling, but the worst was yet to come. This station is a popular place to crash for most climbers. There is a hut where people can pay 5000 yen (about $50) to sleep on the floor with a bunch of fellow (exhausted) climbers. One of the girls in the group chose to do so. From this station on the climb is said to get significantly more challenging, the air gets noticably thinner (some climbers purchase a portable can of oxygen), and some will experience altitude sickness and be forced to either spend the night or descend. Two stations away from the summit (which is about 2 more hours of sheer pain) and I wasn't about to quit. However, it's by the 8th station that your body actually begins to work against you (or me anyway). Every break at a station seemed to be a real trade off, where my body was screaming at me to give it a rest, and it felt so good to sit and let my muscles relax...but then to start up again became tremendously difficult. There was no way around this. From the 8th station onward, the theory of 'mind over matter' was put to the test. My legs felt like they were filled with lead, and were resisting every single step - but my mind was eager to make it to the summit. You get the picture...it was rough. The climb was steep and painful. The terrain was mostly gravel and small rocks, and every step that took so much effort would slide back half a pace. Some parts were stacked bolders, which demanded every ounce of my energy to climb up. To be honest, I made it from the 8th to the 9th station at a snail's pace, taking plenty of breaks. I didn't mind so much, as long as I made it there. The 9th station is basically the top, where most people rest, eat, drink, purchase souvenirs. The 10th station is just a 5 minute walk from there, to make it to the summit; the highest point.
After resting a bit and taking ample pictures of the magnificent panoramic view from the 9th station, I collected myself and head up to the 10th and final station. At the 10th station there is a torii gate, where the group of us posed for pictures and stood around in amazement. I never thought I would see the day where I'd be standing on the top of a volcano, let alone, the highest peak in Japan. The crater was so cool, I was speechless as I stared down into the abyss from which lava last poured out in 1708. sweeeeet. There was some snow around the crater, and the top was a bit chilly with gusts of wind - but being a Canadian - it was no big deal.
Unfortunately, from the top, I really had no idea what I was in for on the way down. If I had to describe the descent in one word it would be 'excruciating'. If you're thinking about climbing Mt.Fuji, I would urge one to wear appropriate footwear. I made the mistake of wearing a pair of Pumas, average running shoes with a thin sole; they were demolished by the end of the climb. I won't go into too much detail about the pain, but stopping every five steps to dump gravel out of my shoes, and relieve the pressure from my toes pressing against the front of my shoes prolonged the trip down the mountain (by 45min - an hour). Please note that this was not the case for those in my group wearing proper hiking boots.
Now that I have finished whining....
Having fully recovered, and looking back on things - the climb was just an amazing experience; and quite the accomplishment! That being said, there is a well-known saying in Japan: "Anybody would be a fool not to climb Mt.Fuji once - but a fool to do so twice" but I think one will only develop a true understanding of this after their first (and likely their last) climb.
As I looked around at fellow climbers preparing to head up the mountain, I quickly began to feel ill equipped. Most climbers were Japanese, and looked as though they knew what they were doing. They had head lamps, ski poles/hiking sticks, proper hiking boots, and were dressed as though they were about to climb Mt.Everest - wearing heavy wind-breaking pants, thick parkas and even tuques. Meanwhile, I had a backpack filled with plenty of snacks and fluids, a couple of extra layers, and a flashlight. Though it was a little discouraging to see these Japanese hikers taking things so seriously - being a Canadian - I wasn't overly concerned. We gathered at the starting point, paused for a quick group photo and were on our way. And I must say....I had no idea what I was getting myself into.
I think the fact that Mt.Fuji is so often referred to as such a major tourist attraction is quite misleading; as it almost implies that climbing this 3, 776 meter (or 12 388 ft) volcano, Japan's highest mountain, is a fun or leisurely undertaking. ...it wasn't. My friends, I will not sugarcoat it...this climb was probably the most difficult thing I've ever done in my life.
So, without further adieu, here is my un-cut story, of the time I climbed Mt.Fujisan...
It was midnight and things started off just fine. Adrenaline was pumping through my veins. Everyone was excited and full of energy - an energy that would die down somewhere between the 6th and 7th station. The route we took started off with steps...nothing too strenuous. But this was only the beginning. The start of the trail is marked with a Torii gate (a Shinto shrine marking a sacred place where climbers can pause and ask for protection throughout their long and challenging ascent up the mountain). As we continued, the steps disappeared, replaced by big bolders that cluttered the path - it was then that the real climbing began. 15 minutes in and I was panting (though I am not sure what this says about my physical condition), Nao (who had climbed Mt.Fuji two years prior) assured us that this was only "the beginning of the beginning" he would say...and for a while I thought he was just being facetious. In the first hour of the climb, I was expecting we would get onto some nicely paved path with just a shallow incline that would wind up the mountain to lead us to the top. I don't know what I was thinking.
After the first hour or so we arrived at the 6th station, where a handful of people were sitting around for a rest. At each station there are little huts selling (expensive) bowls of ramen, and a selection of (over priced) drinks. The trail we had taken was a bit longer than the more popular route, which tends to get quite crowded; on this path we not only had the advatage of less crowds but also a clear sight of the starry night sky from any point along the way. This turned out to be an excellent choice, since we had started too late to see the sunrise from the summit. I was more than happy to see the sunrise from about 2/3 of the way up the mountain - we had an excellent view, and didn't feel rushed for the rest of the climb (Traditionally people climb Mt.Fuji at night aiming to watch the sunrise from the summit). I should add that it was a gorgeous night, and the perfect weather. Needless to say the sunrise was absolutely breathtaking. By far the most beautiful sight I have ever seen. After snapping multiple photographs of the view it was time to keep moving up.
The trail was marked with some signs along the way, directing us toward the next station. The biggest disappointment however, was learning that for each station, there was an 'original' station. So for example, after leaving station 6, we encountered a sign telling us we were about an hour away from the 'original 6th station'. And this continued throughout the entire climb. Each pseudo station, had its respective 'original' station - all I can say is...whoever posted these signs must have had a great sense of humour. Furthermore, there seemed to be the occasional time quote discrepancy, where one sign would say '50 minutes' to the next station, and the next would estimate '80 minutes' to the next station.
Well, getting to the 8th station was grueling, but the worst was yet to come. This station is a popular place to crash for most climbers. There is a hut where people can pay 5000 yen (about $50) to sleep on the floor with a bunch of fellow (exhausted) climbers. One of the girls in the group chose to do so. From this station on the climb is said to get significantly more challenging, the air gets noticably thinner (some climbers purchase a portable can of oxygen), and some will experience altitude sickness and be forced to either spend the night or descend. Two stations away from the summit (which is about 2 more hours of sheer pain) and I wasn't about to quit. However, it's by the 8th station that your body actually begins to work against you (or me anyway). Every break at a station seemed to be a real trade off, where my body was screaming at me to give it a rest, and it felt so good to sit and let my muscles relax...but then to start up again became tremendously difficult. There was no way around this. From the 8th station onward, the theory of 'mind over matter' was put to the test. My legs felt like they were filled with lead, and were resisting every single step - but my mind was eager to make it to the summit. You get the picture...it was rough. The climb was steep and painful. The terrain was mostly gravel and small rocks, and every step that took so much effort would slide back half a pace. Some parts were stacked bolders, which demanded every ounce of my energy to climb up. To be honest, I made it from the 8th to the 9th station at a snail's pace, taking plenty of breaks. I didn't mind so much, as long as I made it there. The 9th station is basically the top, where most people rest, eat, drink, purchase souvenirs. The 10th station is just a 5 minute walk from there, to make it to the summit; the highest point.
After resting a bit and taking ample pictures of the magnificent panoramic view from the 9th station, I collected myself and head up to the 10th and final station. At the 10th station there is a torii gate, where the group of us posed for pictures and stood around in amazement. I never thought I would see the day where I'd be standing on the top of a volcano, let alone, the highest peak in Japan. The crater was so cool, I was speechless as I stared down into the abyss from which lava last poured out in 1708. sweeeeet. There was some snow around the crater, and the top was a bit chilly with gusts of wind - but being a Canadian - it was no big deal.
Unfortunately, from the top, I really had no idea what I was in for on the way down. If I had to describe the descent in one word it would be 'excruciating'. If you're thinking about climbing Mt.Fuji, I would urge one to wear appropriate footwear. I made the mistake of wearing a pair of Pumas, average running shoes with a thin sole; they were demolished by the end of the climb. I won't go into too much detail about the pain, but stopping every five steps to dump gravel out of my shoes, and relieve the pressure from my toes pressing against the front of my shoes prolonged the trip down the mountain (by 45min - an hour). Please note that this was not the case for those in my group wearing proper hiking boots.
Now that I have finished whining....
Having fully recovered, and looking back on things - the climb was just an amazing experience; and quite the accomplishment! That being said, there is a well-known saying in Japan: "Anybody would be a fool not to climb Mt.Fuji once - but a fool to do so twice" but I think one will only develop a true understanding of this after their first (and likely their last) climb.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Work. Party. & Pen Pals.
In between being bombarded with school work - writing reports, exams and such - I haven't been up to all that much. I have spent too many days hermitting in my room, I tend to get really overwhelmed when it comes to school work and it tuckers me right out. So when I wasn't writing a report (or stressing out about writing a report) I was sleeping. I get so flustered that my body just shuts down on me, and I need to nap in order to recharge frequently. So that's my sob story about the life of a university student, but life hasn't been all that bad. I've managed to complete most of my work; the way I (somehow) always do. I am currently just one essay away from complete freedom!! Therefore, I thought I'd take some time to write a new blog post.
Recently, I decided to head out with my friend Sophie to one of Japan's (many) quirky little restaurants. I don't think one can truly appreciate Japan without checking out some of its more - shall we say - unique restaurants. This one was train themed. We had been determined to get to this place for a while, the first trip we made was disappointing since it was closed. But this time, we made sure it was open! I really didn't know what to expect (you never can with some of these things). Outside was a vending machine like menu, where you prepay for a ticket to give to the chef. When we walked in, we were impressed with the train seats for chairs, and the train paraphernalia everywhere. The place was cluttered with pictures, tickets, toy train models, pretty much anything related to trains was somehow used to decorate this little place. There are only about five 'booths' in the whole restaurant, so it definitely had a cozy feel to it. Oh, and I suppose the main attraction might be the toy train that delivers your curry dish. Though I had seen it done before (i.e. the toy shinkansen train at Kappa), this model train was an old fashioned one and it was pretty cool. The curry was...subpar, but the experience was awesome! In general, I have to say that I think I'm a bigger fan of Indian curry than Japanese curry, but I was still quite happy to be in one of Japan's odd little restaurants. I would probably recommend this place for anyone visiting the area. On our way out the owner ran up and gave us a souvenir - a little train ticket stamped with the date, which will make for a great addition to my scrap book.
In other exciting news, I bought myself a Nikon D3000. After hanging out with three of my friends who all have the same camera, I couldn't help but notice how crappy and inadequate my little digital camera is. There I was, about to travel some of the most amazing parts of the world, with no appropriate camera to capture my experiences. No way jose. I went out to see what I could find... Sure enough, I scored a great deal (it happened to be on sale!) and I am really excited to put it to good use. My plans for when I am done this last week of school involve some 'street photography' in Japan. I'm not so skilled with a camera yet, but this one is really easy to use (it's actually idiot proof) so I expect I will be able to snap some good photos.
Since last week was a bit hellish (with two papers due on the Friday), I decided to go out and party a bit Saturday night. [You know, unwind... kill some brain cells while I'm at it.] I knew I wouldn't leave Tokyo without going to Japan's biggest and most talked about night club - Ageha. Previous plans to make it there fell through, so Saturday night was the night.
The club is out in the middle of nowhere, but thankfully there is a free shuttle from Shinjuku station for this reason. The party crew consisted of myself, 5 Aussies and 1 New Zealander; a rowdie bunch - just my type of people. I had a big role as the only Canadian representative - but I think I did my country proud. As the story goes, we drank...we danced...we had a great night. And the club, well...it's certainly huge. 3 Floors, each with a different Dj. I was glad to have made it out on a 'House' night - some of my favourite stuff to dance to. Outside there is a big swimming pool (for decoration, not for swimming) - but it's nice to look at, and creates a cool "pool party" atmosphere. The main bar on the first floor is equipped with four long poles on each corner - these are for the pole dancers that entertain throughout the night. I think I was more impressed than any guy in the room - those girls were talented! and the 'moves' were tasteful. I believe I have acquired a new appreciation for pole dancing (but don't worry Mom, it's not my thing). All in all, it turned out to be yet another successful night on the town (that ended at 8am).
So party time is over with and it's back to work for me - which is what I have been doing since. I resigned from Abercrombie in order to focus on my final reports, and later to dedicate my time to planning my travels (which I am still really looking forward to). The staff at A&F were nice, and it was great meeting new people - but I can't say I will miss the job itself. I did get used to it and it wasn't bad I guess - just probably something I would get bored of had I been there any longer; I will be working my last shift tomorrow. Then it's "Sayonara" !!
Yesterday I received a letter in the mail from a grade 6 student that I met when she was on a class trip in Kamakura. She was in a small group of kids and I gather part of their assignment was to try and meet foreigners to practice speaking English. They asked to have a picture with me, before asking me a few questions to get to know me a bit. I was flattered and pleasantly surprised to have received a copy of the picture along with sweetest letter. Basically...I now have a Japanese pen pal. Her name is Mika and she is just adorable.
Friends in my residence are packing up (I've started a little bit of packing myself). It's so hard to believe my stay in Japan is coming to an end; it feels like I only just arrived - but at the same time, I've adapted well and gotten pretty comfortable here (in some respects). Now that I've settled in, it's time to pick up and move on. Onward! now for a month long tour of Thailand, Cambodia,and Vietnam... then...I'm on my way back home.
There is so much I am going to miss about this place it is unreal! Some of the things making the top of the list include:
- Onigiri, Takoyaki & Daifuku (but all of the food in general!)
- The countless vending machines! (especially those with booze and warm coffee)
- the toilets (and there many functions - I'll probably be shy returning to the use of toilets that don't make flushing sounds)
- the pretty Japanese boys (with their perfect bone structure + edgy, fashion forward, and rather feminin style) AND their dancing.
- conbinis !!
- Purikuras!
- karaoke
- jelly drinks
- Matcha ice cream
- Broken English on various ads, labels and merchandise
- 7day second hand shops
- Basically...Japanese culture (respect)
- The Tokyo city life (so lively & fun)
- Izakayas (Japanese style 'pubs'); especially the all-you-can-drink ones
- The fashion (from 'Shibuya fashion' to 'Kawaii fashion' and 'Harajuku fashion' - I love it all.)
- the clubs and (long) nights out ['til 6am]
& SO much more!
I came, I saw, I fell in love. (with Japan)
xo
Recently, I decided to head out with my friend Sophie to one of Japan's (many) quirky little restaurants. I don't think one can truly appreciate Japan without checking out some of its more - shall we say - unique restaurants. This one was train themed. We had been determined to get to this place for a while, the first trip we made was disappointing since it was closed. But this time, we made sure it was open! I really didn't know what to expect (you never can with some of these things). Outside was a vending machine like menu, where you prepay for a ticket to give to the chef. When we walked in, we were impressed with the train seats for chairs, and the train paraphernalia everywhere. The place was cluttered with pictures, tickets, toy train models, pretty much anything related to trains was somehow used to decorate this little place. There are only about five 'booths' in the whole restaurant, so it definitely had a cozy feel to it. Oh, and I suppose the main attraction might be the toy train that delivers your curry dish. Though I had seen it done before (i.e. the toy shinkansen train at Kappa), this model train was an old fashioned one and it was pretty cool. The curry was...subpar, but the experience was awesome! In general, I have to say that I think I'm a bigger fan of Indian curry than Japanese curry, but I was still quite happy to be in one of Japan's odd little restaurants. I would probably recommend this place for anyone visiting the area. On our way out the owner ran up and gave us a souvenir - a little train ticket stamped with the date, which will make for a great addition to my scrap book.
In other exciting news, I bought myself a Nikon D3000. After hanging out with three of my friends who all have the same camera, I couldn't help but notice how crappy and inadequate my little digital camera is. There I was, about to travel some of the most amazing parts of the world, with no appropriate camera to capture my experiences. No way jose. I went out to see what I could find... Sure enough, I scored a great deal (it happened to be on sale!) and I am really excited to put it to good use. My plans for when I am done this last week of school involve some 'street photography' in Japan. I'm not so skilled with a camera yet, but this one is really easy to use (it's actually idiot proof) so I expect I will be able to snap some good photos.
Since last week was a bit hellish (with two papers due on the Friday), I decided to go out and party a bit Saturday night. [You know, unwind... kill some brain cells while I'm at it.] I knew I wouldn't leave Tokyo without going to Japan's biggest and most talked about night club - Ageha. Previous plans to make it there fell through, so Saturday night was the night.
The club is out in the middle of nowhere, but thankfully there is a free shuttle from Shinjuku station for this reason. The party crew consisted of myself, 5 Aussies and 1 New Zealander; a rowdie bunch - just my type of people. I had a big role as the only Canadian representative - but I think I did my country proud. As the story goes, we drank...we danced...we had a great night. And the club, well...it's certainly huge. 3 Floors, each with a different Dj. I was glad to have made it out on a 'House' night - some of my favourite stuff to dance to. Outside there is a big swimming pool (for decoration, not for swimming) - but it's nice to look at, and creates a cool "pool party" atmosphere. The main bar on the first floor is equipped with four long poles on each corner - these are for the pole dancers that entertain throughout the night. I think I was more impressed than any guy in the room - those girls were talented! and the 'moves' were tasteful. I believe I have acquired a new appreciation for pole dancing (but don't worry Mom, it's not my thing). All in all, it turned out to be yet another successful night on the town (that ended at 8am).
So party time is over with and it's back to work for me - which is what I have been doing since. I resigned from Abercrombie in order to focus on my final reports, and later to dedicate my time to planning my travels (which I am still really looking forward to). The staff at A&F were nice, and it was great meeting new people - but I can't say I will miss the job itself. I did get used to it and it wasn't bad I guess - just probably something I would get bored of had I been there any longer; I will be working my last shift tomorrow. Then it's "Sayonara" !!
Yesterday I received a letter in the mail from a grade 6 student that I met when she was on a class trip in Kamakura. She was in a small group of kids and I gather part of their assignment was to try and meet foreigners to practice speaking English. They asked to have a picture with me, before asking me a few questions to get to know me a bit. I was flattered and pleasantly surprised to have received a copy of the picture along with sweetest letter. Basically...I now have a Japanese pen pal. Her name is Mika and she is just adorable.
Friends in my residence are packing up (I've started a little bit of packing myself). It's so hard to believe my stay in Japan is coming to an end; it feels like I only just arrived - but at the same time, I've adapted well and gotten pretty comfortable here (in some respects). Now that I've settled in, it's time to pick up and move on. Onward! now for a month long tour of Thailand, Cambodia,and Vietnam... then...I'm on my way back home.
There is so much I am going to miss about this place it is unreal! Some of the things making the top of the list include:
- Onigiri, Takoyaki & Daifuku (but all of the food in general!)
- The countless vending machines! (especially those with booze and warm coffee)
- the toilets (and there many functions - I'll probably be shy returning to the use of toilets that don't make flushing sounds)
- the pretty Japanese boys (with their perfect bone structure + edgy, fashion forward, and rather feminin style) AND their dancing.
- conbinis !!
- Purikuras!
- karaoke
- jelly drinks
- Matcha ice cream
- Broken English on various ads, labels and merchandise
- 7day second hand shops
- Basically...Japanese culture (respect)
- The Tokyo city life (so lively & fun)
- Izakayas (Japanese style 'pubs'); especially the all-you-can-drink ones
- The fashion (from 'Shibuya fashion' to 'Kawaii fashion' and 'Harajuku fashion' - I love it all.)
- the clubs and (long) nights out ['til 6am]
& SO much more!
I came, I saw, I fell in love. (with Japan)
xo
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Happy Birthday Canada !
It's Canada Day in Tokyo! (and my first Canada Day outside of Canada) so in tribute to my home and native land I wanted to dedicate a blog post to making mention of a few things that I miss about Canada; perhaps things I have come to appreciate even more having lived in Japan for the past few months...
- First and foremost, my beloved family and friends (You know who you are). Thanks so much for the continued support (i.e. taking interest in my blog). The ability to share all of my amazing experiences gives them so much more meaning ! Love you all xoxo.
- Space! mainly, private space in the public sphere (i.e. public transport, or even just walking down the street). Walking through Tokyo can be quite a physically demanding activity at times (such as busy hours, or weekends - Sundays are the worst!). Needless to say, life in Canada doesn't place such a strain on my agility when I just want to pick up some groceries or make it to class or work on time.
- A familiar language. I haven't heard English spoken anywhere (apart from conversation with friends, or in my classes), let alone been able to read anything since I've been here. This is something so easily taken for granted. I cannot read advertisements, or choose to pick up and read a stray newspaper - this form of familiarity is a fundamental aspect of feeling comfortable where you are. Although I manage to get by, I definitely miss the feeling of competence. (Then again, I could just learn Japanese...)
- The laid back Canadian life. I never tend to feel like I am rushing around so intensely in Canada the way I have felt in Japan (however this is mostly a characteristic unique to Tokyo). Also a laid back lifestyle in terms of dress. Sweatpants and a simple tee-shirt are generally considered acceptable university attire in Canada, whereas here - though there is no 'dress code' per se, such a fashion statement would definitely turn heads in a class room full of girls that look like they spent three hours getting ready for school (makeup, fake lashes, styled hair, high heels and an overall well-thought-out ensemble). This means no rolling out of bed, grabbing the first (and most comfortable) articles of clothing I can find and throwing my hair into pony tail before bolting out the door for class. Venturing out into the public eye in Tokyo means committing to 'getting ready' beforehand; looking decent. Ohhhh it's a hard life.
- Sometimes, I miss the Canadian social culture (i.e. occasionally making small talk with cashiers, servers and retail workers). This isn't so much in relation to the language barrier, but interestingly a difference in culture. Canadians typically view friendliness as a means of 'good service', and just a nice way to treat others in general, whereas the Japanese focus strictly on respect (no more and no less). In Japan, a worker seeks to do their job, and doesn't even expect to be recognized as an individual beyond who they are in their role or job position. Their aim is to do their job, and to do it well. It's nice, don't get me wrong, but I do like how Canadians can be so darn friendly. However, notice I specified this as something I only sometimes miss; in Japan, you will never encounter someone looking to vent to you about their life problems, or share a conversation with someone who is just a little bit too open. Eitherway, it seems there is no happy medium between the two - and the bottom line is: I do love Canadians.
- Good old Canadian weather (save the bitterly cold winter days). I didn't expect I would be saying this - but that was before experiencing what real 'rainy weather' is, and the most intense humidity I've ever been exposed to. There is being sweaty from extreme heat, and then there is being 'sticky' from untold levels of humidity. I am not a fan of either. In Japan, 'dressing for the weather' involves planning frizz-control for your hair. As for the rain - well, rainboots aren't the most attractive footwear and they do a nice job of spoiling any 'cute' outfit you've put together. I don't care what the pattern (i.e. polkadot, floral etc.) - rainboots are invariably heinous; there is simply no such thing as nice looking rainboots. Finally, I never leave my residence without my umbrella. Enough said. So Canadian winters can be frigid... but if you can layer and still look good, things really aren't so bad after all.
- Garbage cans: every 6 ft. in Canada - scarce in Japan. A simple convenience that goes a long way. For a country that seems to have no opposition to wrapping/packaging/bagging virtually everything (i.e. individually packaged bananas, and plenty of snacks that you will open to find individually wrapped pieces inside - even individually wrapped gum chicklets!; bags for the smallest purchases - it's insane) more garbage cans around doesn't seem like a bad idea.
- Last but certainly not least: Cultural diversity. My lovely multicultural country. This is also something that might be taken for granted by those born and raised in Canada. Living in Japan has given me the opportunity to experience what it is to be a visible minority and there are times when I truly miss not 'blending in' (i.e. at the gym, or on the train). It is often that I stick out like a sore thumb and while the attention is innocent and I have gotten used to it by now - sometimes I'm just not in the mood to standout, and there is absolutely nothing I can do about it. One key difference between visible minorities in Japan and those in Canada is that to be such in Japan automatically makes you a foreigner (naive, oblivious, inferior; an outsider), whereas in Canada, it would be anybody's guess as to whether you're a tourist or a Canadian citizen. This is part of what makes Canada so exceptional, and what makes me so proud to be Canadian.
There is a strong sense in which living in Japan has helped me realize just how Canadian I truly am. Every difference I have come to recognize is based on beliefs and values that were shaped within my Canadian culture; and many of these differences that I've discovered through life in Japan have led me to better recognize what I love so much about my home country. On that note, "Happy Canada Day!!". See you soon Canada!
Love always,
Your proud Canadian girl,
xo Tory
- First and foremost, my beloved family and friends (You know who you are). Thanks so much for the continued support (i.e. taking interest in my blog). The ability to share all of my amazing experiences gives them so much more meaning ! Love you all xoxo.
- Space! mainly, private space in the public sphere (i.e. public transport, or even just walking down the street). Walking through Tokyo can be quite a physically demanding activity at times (such as busy hours, or weekends - Sundays are the worst!). Needless to say, life in Canada doesn't place such a strain on my agility when I just want to pick up some groceries or make it to class or work on time.
- A familiar language. I haven't heard English spoken anywhere (apart from conversation with friends, or in my classes), let alone been able to read anything since I've been here. This is something so easily taken for granted. I cannot read advertisements, or choose to pick up and read a stray newspaper - this form of familiarity is a fundamental aspect of feeling comfortable where you are. Although I manage to get by, I definitely miss the feeling of competence. (Then again, I could just learn Japanese...)
- The laid back Canadian life. I never tend to feel like I am rushing around so intensely in Canada the way I have felt in Japan (however this is mostly a characteristic unique to Tokyo). Also a laid back lifestyle in terms of dress. Sweatpants and a simple tee-shirt are generally considered acceptable university attire in Canada, whereas here - though there is no 'dress code' per se, such a fashion statement would definitely turn heads in a class room full of girls that look like they spent three hours getting ready for school (makeup, fake lashes, styled hair, high heels and an overall well-thought-out ensemble). This means no rolling out of bed, grabbing the first (and most comfortable) articles of clothing I can find and throwing my hair into pony tail before bolting out the door for class. Venturing out into the public eye in Tokyo means committing to 'getting ready' beforehand; looking decent. Ohhhh it's a hard life.
- Sometimes, I miss the Canadian social culture (i.e. occasionally making small talk with cashiers, servers and retail workers). This isn't so much in relation to the language barrier, but interestingly a difference in culture. Canadians typically view friendliness as a means of 'good service', and just a nice way to treat others in general, whereas the Japanese focus strictly on respect (no more and no less). In Japan, a worker seeks to do their job, and doesn't even expect to be recognized as an individual beyond who they are in their role or job position. Their aim is to do their job, and to do it well. It's nice, don't get me wrong, but I do like how Canadians can be so darn friendly. However, notice I specified this as something I only sometimes miss; in Japan, you will never encounter someone looking to vent to you about their life problems, or share a conversation with someone who is just a little bit too open. Eitherway, it seems there is no happy medium between the two - and the bottom line is: I do love Canadians.
- Good old Canadian weather (save the bitterly cold winter days). I didn't expect I would be saying this - but that was before experiencing what real 'rainy weather' is, and the most intense humidity I've ever been exposed to. There is being sweaty from extreme heat, and then there is being 'sticky' from untold levels of humidity. I am not a fan of either. In Japan, 'dressing for the weather' involves planning frizz-control for your hair. As for the rain - well, rainboots aren't the most attractive footwear and they do a nice job of spoiling any 'cute' outfit you've put together. I don't care what the pattern (i.e. polkadot, floral etc.) - rainboots are invariably heinous; there is simply no such thing as nice looking rainboots. Finally, I never leave my residence without my umbrella. Enough said. So Canadian winters can be frigid... but if you can layer and still look good, things really aren't so bad after all.
- Garbage cans: every 6 ft. in Canada - scarce in Japan. A simple convenience that goes a long way. For a country that seems to have no opposition to wrapping/packaging/bagging virtually everything (i.e. individually packaged bananas, and plenty of snacks that you will open to find individually wrapped pieces inside - even individually wrapped gum chicklets!; bags for the smallest purchases - it's insane) more garbage cans around doesn't seem like a bad idea.
- Last but certainly not least: Cultural diversity. My lovely multicultural country. This is also something that might be taken for granted by those born and raised in Canada. Living in Japan has given me the opportunity to experience what it is to be a visible minority and there are times when I truly miss not 'blending in' (i.e. at the gym, or on the train). It is often that I stick out like a sore thumb and while the attention is innocent and I have gotten used to it by now - sometimes I'm just not in the mood to standout, and there is absolutely nothing I can do about it. One key difference between visible minorities in Japan and those in Canada is that to be such in Japan automatically makes you a foreigner (naive, oblivious, inferior; an outsider), whereas in Canada, it would be anybody's guess as to whether you're a tourist or a Canadian citizen. This is part of what makes Canada so exceptional, and what makes me so proud to be Canadian.
There is a strong sense in which living in Japan has helped me realize just how Canadian I truly am. Every difference I have come to recognize is based on beliefs and values that were shaped within my Canadian culture; and many of these differences that I've discovered through life in Japan have led me to better recognize what I love so much about my home country. On that note, "Happy Canada Day!!". See you soon Canada!
Love always,
Your proud Canadian girl,
xo Tory
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Kyoto Round II: Gluttony
WARNING: This blog is mostly about (tasty) food, I suggest eating before reading this.
Last week I made a trip to Kyoto with two girls from my university to visit two young ladies we met from Kyoto Seika University. Kyoto was just as beautiful as I remembered it to be and the trip was a major success, mainly due to the good company (the girls: Sophie, Steph, Hannah and Alice) and the delicious food. The over night bus ride there was...awful. In spite of indulging in a few celebratory beverages with Sophie on the way to the station, I didn't sleep a wink. This time I was even bold enough to recline my chair all the way, but that didn't help too much either. Save on money, lose on sleep - a sacrifice I chose to make. So needless to say, the first thing to happen upon our arrival in Kyoto (around 7am) was a nice big nap. The girls and I had a leisurely morning as we waited to make some plans for when Alice got out of class. We head over to the campus to grab some lunch at the cafeteria, and to take a tour of the university. After lunch we grabbed some ice cream and sat outside to watch a live music (student bands) performance. J-pop, and Japanese rock is always a treat. They were adorable, and quite entertaining to say the least.
I was amazed by this campus, it was radically different from Keio's - since it's mainly an arts school even the students were different (no girls parading around all dolled up, in their Louboutins, with their oversized Louis Vuitton purses). What really sets this campus apart however, besides its fabulous pond and fountain in between buildings, are the animals! This campus has caged animals hanging around just for fun. Peacocks, chickens, bunnies, and a colony of deer! A little bit strange, but so neat! Apparently a former director decided it was necessary to have animals around in case students needed a break from studying books. I didn't question it, just enjoyed it...a lot. I think the deer were my favourite - I've seen plenty of deer but these were just a lively bunch; in case you're wondering what sound deer make - they squeak!! trust me on this one, and it's too cute. The verdict: Kyoto Seika is a super cool university, and definitely steals the award for the most unique.
The weather was absolutely perfect the first day, warm and sunny - not a cloud in the sky. The ideal picnic weather, and so that was the very next thing we did. We grabbed a blanket, a couple of pillows, some music, and some beverages, then santered over to a grassy area close by where we could just lounge around and soak up the glorious day. Nice weather is even nicer when it pops up in the midst of Japan's rainy season - so we really enjoyed it that much more. Walking around Kyoto was great, the girls live right near the mountains which make for a great view from wherever you are. The trees were so vibrant and green, a real change of scenery from that of a concrete paved Tokyo decorated with skyscrapers. There was a forest of bamboo trees nearby and old men and women working hard in pretty rice fields that were scattered everywhere. It was so nice to just hangout, with no school work, and no pressing plans. We just hung around and went wherever the day took us; which just so happened to be 'Liquor Mountain' to stock up before a night of partying. We heard about a campus event going on that night and couldn't miss out. Of all things, it was a dance competition! my favourite. The Japanese really love to dance and they do it well. We collected our snacks, and our liquor before making our way over to the event. We watched and cheered, then later hit the dancefloor ourselves. The music...the people...everything was awesome. We all had a blast.
Now some would say a night of drinking isn't complete without a McDonald's run. I'm not a fan myself, but sure enough that's where I ended up. My life flashed before me several times as I sat on that back of Hannah's bike to get there. Luckily I made it in one piece and it was much faster than walking. As it turned out, I was happy to get my hands on some nuggets and a strawberry McFlurry. If you're wondering what a 'Japanese' McDonald's is like...I would say it's mostly the same, but tailored a bit more to Japanese taste (i.e. an Ebi burger - which is shrimp, AND Pikachu themed toys - and yeah, I certainly got me one). Once we had all ordered and found ourselves a table, we were informed that this '24 hour' McDonald's was closing, and that we had to leave immediately. At first we were pretty unimpressed, but we didn't make a fuss - we just packed up and continued our late night meal in the parking lot. Everything was going great, or so I thought - until the police pulled up on their little scooters (not too intimidating). I can't say I had much of an understanding of what was going on at the time, but apparently they wanted to see our alien cards (can we say racial discrimination?) hahaha. Well, being the prepared and law-abiding foreigner that I am, I had mine on me, as did all of my friends. From what I understood, that was all they really wanted - so we took the opportunity to be friendly with the less-than-menacing officers. Must be boring to be a police officer in such a crime-free area; the best they could find were some innocent 'gaijin' just out for a good time, trying to enjoy their McDonald's. Still slightly intoxicated at this point, we were having a good laugh at the whole situation. I made a point of pulling out my cell phone to snag a few pictures with one of the officers in order to capture the moment. How exciting, my first encounter with Japanese police officers. I'd just like to add, the fact that he couldn't stop smiling led me to believe he enjoyed the attention. The other looked to be rather ill (he was sporting a face mask). It was so 'kawaii'! Oh silly obnoxious youth. The two officers made notes of some sort, then hopped on their scooters and sped off into the night. I'm always happy to see police officers doing their job to serve and protect.
The next day was Sophie's 21st birthday! We were all in some rough shape (all that...dancing... really tuckered us out). We slept in for most of the morning and began our mission to find the best okonomayaki in Kyoto. Our friends had been going on about how amazing this one place was, and since I happened to be a fan already I was really looking forward to finding out what the big deal was. Well...it didn't take long to realize. One glance at the endless menu said it all. So many options to choose from, it really made things difficult. I went with the shittake okonomayaki, and Steph took the gyoza and we split between the two of us. So delicious! the portion size was immense. This is definitely one of my favourite Japanese dishes. The weather was rainy, so feeling stuffed and still tired we decided to head back to watch some tv and take another nap. Later on we decided to have a girly night out, we got all dressed up and celebrated Sophie's birthday dinner at none other than Japan's cheapest sushi place: Kappa! It's a conveyor belt sushi place; the sushi is decent and more importantly less than a dollar a plate! (dangerous). After sushi we saved just enough room for a tasty dessert at Baskin Robins. Luck was on our side with a buy-2-scoop, get-1-free deal! (as if that was necessary). After sampling nearly every flavour to be so careful in our selection, I had Belgian Chocolate, Strawberry Banana, topped with Cookies & Cream. (Mmmmm....) That night we were still all so drained - perhaps from eating as much as from the night before - that we decided to just hang out, watch a movie, and have a pajama party back at the dorm. It was a 'Girls Night In' and it was fantastic. I felt like I was thirteen years old, when we all gathered some blankets and pillows to get comfy and watch a movie.
Day three would be our last day in Kyoto. In spite of an early night the night before, we managed to sleep in again. This time we woke up to grab a bite at a ramen place (yet another fine Japanese dish - perhaps one of the most popular). I've had ramen a few times since I've been here, (because doing so is a must) but I never really took to it. I generally find it too salty, and I'm just not much of a soup person to begin with....this ramen changed everything. Alice is a vegetarian, so she took us to one of her favourite restaurants known for its soy milk ramen. I went with her recommendation and wasn't let down. It was the best soup, let alone ramen I've ever had! After a great night's sleep, and delicious ramen for lunch we were re-charged and ready to hit the town. The weather was rainy, perfect for shopping (but if you ask me, any weather is perfect for shopping). We paid a visit to downtown Kyoto and shopped around for the rest of the day. Naturally, after a day full of shopping we managed to work up an appetite. This time we were set on getting to an Indian food restaurant that Alice and Hannah said we needed to try. After the okonomayaki, and the ramen, I knew it had to be good. Well...in short, Chana Masala is one of my new favourite Indian dishes. Who would have thought the best Indian food might just be in Japan? And just when you would think we couldn't eat another thing the entire weekend...our last stop was.........Baskin Robins; and yes...the three scoop deal was still in effect (only this time, I swtiched the cookies & cream for strawberry cheesecake). A perfect ending to a wonderful Kyoto trip. While a big part of me felt utterly disgusting for committing gluttony to such an extreme, every over-indulgence was somehow justified by the fact that I was on vacation and in Kyoto. On that note, for those of you interested in visiting Japan, consider yourself warned: the food is so delicious, it's lethal. If I were living here any longer I'm convinced that I would be obese to the point of immobility.
My first experience of Kyoto was all about seeing the sights, temples and shrines. I still had a great time, but this time around I was really happy to see a very different side of Kyoto (not to mention sample some of the best food Kyoto has to offer). I think this relaxing trip allowed me to notice a lot more. When I wasn't preoccupied with diligently following my tour guide and getting around to every temple or suggested location I could, I was really able to take in so much more of the unique and serene ambiance of Kyoto. Overall, Kyoto is just so laid back, three days felt like an entire week. This area of Japan seems to have it all: the mountains, rice fields and gorgeous nature, some of Japan's most famous historical monuments and temples, even a dose of the modern city life and shopping downtown. Really, what's not to love? That being said, my friends live in a pretty secluded area where there isn't a 'conbini' (convenience store) every 6ft. Basically, I adore Kyoto but I also have a special attachment to Tokyo - both for very different reasons.
After another painful over night bus ride on the way home (believe it or not, it was worse than the ride there) I made it back safe and sound to my home, sweet home in Tokyo. The weather recently has been rainy off and on and extremely humid; frizzy hair and 'drenched in sweat' is not a good look for me. It looks like the infamous 'rainy season' has officially moved in. I've come to understand the very practical reasoning behind a vending machine planted every 3ft - it's a means of survival in this country. I'm still keeping busy with school, trying to get through it anyway. So close to being done! the semester has just flown by. It's hard to sit down and be productive when I'm so caught up in daydreaming about plans for after school. These plans include a Mt.Fuji climb! Tentatively scheduled for July 22nd. Some friends and I will start the climb around 10pm, to hangout at the peak where we will watch the sunrise. I'm really excited! (better start training now though). I'm hoping for good weather, but rain or shine I know it will be an amazing experience - just epic. I've flown over it, and soon enough I'm going to climb it. Can't wait.
Apart from my plans in Japan, I actually have even bigger plans to follow. School is wrapping up and I will be all done around mid-July, and.....then......on July 25th.... I'm grabbing my backpack and I am boarding a plane to Bangkok. From there I will checkout Cambodia, Vietnam, and either Laos or Hong Kong. This will - without a doubt - be the biggest adventure of my entire life. From living in Japan I've learned so much about Japan and Japanese culture; I've also learned how to meet the demands imposed by a foreign environment, how to evade ethnocentrism, accept cultural difference, and adapt - but I think that the most valuable lessons are those I've learned about myself in the process. As cheesy as it sounds, in just a few months of living here, I've undergone a huge personal transformation and have truly amazed myself (those especially close to me would be sure to see it). A year ago, or even just 6 months ago, I never would have seen myself taking on the challenges I've met over here - they wouldn't even have been fathomable. Without getting too emotional, Japan will always have a special place in my heart - and there is no question that I will leave here a different person, rich in life experiences.
On that extremely sappy note... I have lots to look forward to! and while a part of me wants to just count down the days until I begin my journey of backpacking around Asia, a bigger part of me wants to enjoy every second I have left in Japan. :)
Missing everyone very much!
Lotta Love xoxo
Last week I made a trip to Kyoto with two girls from my university to visit two young ladies we met from Kyoto Seika University. Kyoto was just as beautiful as I remembered it to be and the trip was a major success, mainly due to the good company (the girls: Sophie, Steph, Hannah and Alice) and the delicious food. The over night bus ride there was...awful. In spite of indulging in a few celebratory beverages with Sophie on the way to the station, I didn't sleep a wink. This time I was even bold enough to recline my chair all the way, but that didn't help too much either. Save on money, lose on sleep - a sacrifice I chose to make. So needless to say, the first thing to happen upon our arrival in Kyoto (around 7am) was a nice big nap. The girls and I had a leisurely morning as we waited to make some plans for when Alice got out of class. We head over to the campus to grab some lunch at the cafeteria, and to take a tour of the university. After lunch we grabbed some ice cream and sat outside to watch a live music (student bands) performance. J-pop, and Japanese rock is always a treat. They were adorable, and quite entertaining to say the least.
I was amazed by this campus, it was radically different from Keio's - since it's mainly an arts school even the students were different (no girls parading around all dolled up, in their Louboutins, with their oversized Louis Vuitton purses). What really sets this campus apart however, besides its fabulous pond and fountain in between buildings, are the animals! This campus has caged animals hanging around just for fun. Peacocks, chickens, bunnies, and a colony of deer! A little bit strange, but so neat! Apparently a former director decided it was necessary to have animals around in case students needed a break from studying books. I didn't question it, just enjoyed it...a lot. I think the deer were my favourite - I've seen plenty of deer but these were just a lively bunch; in case you're wondering what sound deer make - they squeak!! trust me on this one, and it's too cute. The verdict: Kyoto Seika is a super cool university, and definitely steals the award for the most unique.
The weather was absolutely perfect the first day, warm and sunny - not a cloud in the sky. The ideal picnic weather, and so that was the very next thing we did. We grabbed a blanket, a couple of pillows, some music, and some beverages, then santered over to a grassy area close by where we could just lounge around and soak up the glorious day. Nice weather is even nicer when it pops up in the midst of Japan's rainy season - so we really enjoyed it that much more. Walking around Kyoto was great, the girls live right near the mountains which make for a great view from wherever you are. The trees were so vibrant and green, a real change of scenery from that of a concrete paved Tokyo decorated with skyscrapers. There was a forest of bamboo trees nearby and old men and women working hard in pretty rice fields that were scattered everywhere. It was so nice to just hangout, with no school work, and no pressing plans. We just hung around and went wherever the day took us; which just so happened to be 'Liquor Mountain' to stock up before a night of partying. We heard about a campus event going on that night and couldn't miss out. Of all things, it was a dance competition! my favourite. The Japanese really love to dance and they do it well. We collected our snacks, and our liquor before making our way over to the event. We watched and cheered, then later hit the dancefloor ourselves. The music...the people...everything was awesome. We all had a blast.
Now some would say a night of drinking isn't complete without a McDonald's run. I'm not a fan myself, but sure enough that's where I ended up. My life flashed before me several times as I sat on that back of Hannah's bike to get there. Luckily I made it in one piece and it was much faster than walking. As it turned out, I was happy to get my hands on some nuggets and a strawberry McFlurry. If you're wondering what a 'Japanese' McDonald's is like...I would say it's mostly the same, but tailored a bit more to Japanese taste (i.e. an Ebi burger - which is shrimp, AND Pikachu themed toys - and yeah, I certainly got me one). Once we had all ordered and found ourselves a table, we were informed that this '24 hour' McDonald's was closing, and that we had to leave immediately. At first we were pretty unimpressed, but we didn't make a fuss - we just packed up and continued our late night meal in the parking lot. Everything was going great, or so I thought - until the police pulled up on their little scooters (not too intimidating). I can't say I had much of an understanding of what was going on at the time, but apparently they wanted to see our alien cards (can we say racial discrimination?) hahaha. Well, being the prepared and law-abiding foreigner that I am, I had mine on me, as did all of my friends. From what I understood, that was all they really wanted - so we took the opportunity to be friendly with the less-than-menacing officers. Must be boring to be a police officer in such a crime-free area; the best they could find were some innocent 'gaijin' just out for a good time, trying to enjoy their McDonald's. Still slightly intoxicated at this point, we were having a good laugh at the whole situation. I made a point of pulling out my cell phone to snag a few pictures with one of the officers in order to capture the moment. How exciting, my first encounter with Japanese police officers. I'd just like to add, the fact that he couldn't stop smiling led me to believe he enjoyed the attention. The other looked to be rather ill (he was sporting a face mask). It was so 'kawaii'! Oh silly obnoxious youth. The two officers made notes of some sort, then hopped on their scooters and sped off into the night. I'm always happy to see police officers doing their job to serve and protect.
The next day was Sophie's 21st birthday! We were all in some rough shape (all that...dancing... really tuckered us out). We slept in for most of the morning and began our mission to find the best okonomayaki in Kyoto. Our friends had been going on about how amazing this one place was, and since I happened to be a fan already I was really looking forward to finding out what the big deal was. Well...it didn't take long to realize. One glance at the endless menu said it all. So many options to choose from, it really made things difficult. I went with the shittake okonomayaki, and Steph took the gyoza and we split between the two of us. So delicious! the portion size was immense. This is definitely one of my favourite Japanese dishes. The weather was rainy, so feeling stuffed and still tired we decided to head back to watch some tv and take another nap. Later on we decided to have a girly night out, we got all dressed up and celebrated Sophie's birthday dinner at none other than Japan's cheapest sushi place: Kappa! It's a conveyor belt sushi place; the sushi is decent and more importantly less than a dollar a plate! (dangerous). After sushi we saved just enough room for a tasty dessert at Baskin Robins. Luck was on our side with a buy-2-scoop, get-1-free deal! (as if that was necessary). After sampling nearly every flavour to be so careful in our selection, I had Belgian Chocolate, Strawberry Banana, topped with Cookies & Cream. (Mmmmm....) That night we were still all so drained - perhaps from eating as much as from the night before - that we decided to just hang out, watch a movie, and have a pajama party back at the dorm. It was a 'Girls Night In' and it was fantastic. I felt like I was thirteen years old, when we all gathered some blankets and pillows to get comfy and watch a movie.
Day three would be our last day in Kyoto. In spite of an early night the night before, we managed to sleep in again. This time we woke up to grab a bite at a ramen place (yet another fine Japanese dish - perhaps one of the most popular). I've had ramen a few times since I've been here, (because doing so is a must) but I never really took to it. I generally find it too salty, and I'm just not much of a soup person to begin with....this ramen changed everything. Alice is a vegetarian, so she took us to one of her favourite restaurants known for its soy milk ramen. I went with her recommendation and wasn't let down. It was the best soup, let alone ramen I've ever had! After a great night's sleep, and delicious ramen for lunch we were re-charged and ready to hit the town. The weather was rainy, perfect for shopping (but if you ask me, any weather is perfect for shopping). We paid a visit to downtown Kyoto and shopped around for the rest of the day. Naturally, after a day full of shopping we managed to work up an appetite. This time we were set on getting to an Indian food restaurant that Alice and Hannah said we needed to try. After the okonomayaki, and the ramen, I knew it had to be good. Well...in short, Chana Masala is one of my new favourite Indian dishes. Who would have thought the best Indian food might just be in Japan? And just when you would think we couldn't eat another thing the entire weekend...our last stop was.........Baskin Robins; and yes...the three scoop deal was still in effect (only this time, I swtiched the cookies & cream for strawberry cheesecake). A perfect ending to a wonderful Kyoto trip. While a big part of me felt utterly disgusting for committing gluttony to such an extreme, every over-indulgence was somehow justified by the fact that I was on vacation and in Kyoto. On that note, for those of you interested in visiting Japan, consider yourself warned: the food is so delicious, it's lethal. If I were living here any longer I'm convinced that I would be obese to the point of immobility.
My first experience of Kyoto was all about seeing the sights, temples and shrines. I still had a great time, but this time around I was really happy to see a very different side of Kyoto (not to mention sample some of the best food Kyoto has to offer). I think this relaxing trip allowed me to notice a lot more. When I wasn't preoccupied with diligently following my tour guide and getting around to every temple or suggested location I could, I was really able to take in so much more of the unique and serene ambiance of Kyoto. Overall, Kyoto is just so laid back, three days felt like an entire week. This area of Japan seems to have it all: the mountains, rice fields and gorgeous nature, some of Japan's most famous historical monuments and temples, even a dose of the modern city life and shopping downtown. Really, what's not to love? That being said, my friends live in a pretty secluded area where there isn't a 'conbini' (convenience store) every 6ft. Basically, I adore Kyoto but I also have a special attachment to Tokyo - both for very different reasons.
After another painful over night bus ride on the way home (believe it or not, it was worse than the ride there) I made it back safe and sound to my home, sweet home in Tokyo. The weather recently has been rainy off and on and extremely humid; frizzy hair and 'drenched in sweat' is not a good look for me. It looks like the infamous 'rainy season' has officially moved in. I've come to understand the very practical reasoning behind a vending machine planted every 3ft - it's a means of survival in this country. I'm still keeping busy with school, trying to get through it anyway. So close to being done! the semester has just flown by. It's hard to sit down and be productive when I'm so caught up in daydreaming about plans for after school. These plans include a Mt.Fuji climb! Tentatively scheduled for July 22nd. Some friends and I will start the climb around 10pm, to hangout at the peak where we will watch the sunrise. I'm really excited! (better start training now though). I'm hoping for good weather, but rain or shine I know it will be an amazing experience - just epic. I've flown over it, and soon enough I'm going to climb it. Can't wait.
Apart from my plans in Japan, I actually have even bigger plans to follow. School is wrapping up and I will be all done around mid-July, and.....then......on July 25th.... I'm grabbing my backpack and I am boarding a plane to Bangkok. From there I will checkout Cambodia, Vietnam, and either Laos or Hong Kong. This will - without a doubt - be the biggest adventure of my entire life. From living in Japan I've learned so much about Japan and Japanese culture; I've also learned how to meet the demands imposed by a foreign environment, how to evade ethnocentrism, accept cultural difference, and adapt - but I think that the most valuable lessons are those I've learned about myself in the process. As cheesy as it sounds, in just a few months of living here, I've undergone a huge personal transformation and have truly amazed myself (those especially close to me would be sure to see it). A year ago, or even just 6 months ago, I never would have seen myself taking on the challenges I've met over here - they wouldn't even have been fathomable. Without getting too emotional, Japan will always have a special place in my heart - and there is no question that I will leave here a different person, rich in life experiences.
On that extremely sappy note... I have lots to look forward to! and while a part of me wants to just count down the days until I begin my journey of backpacking around Asia, a bigger part of me wants to enjoy every second I have left in Japan. :)
Missing everyone very much!
Lotta Love xoxo
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