Cambodia

Here I am snacking on some delicious apple pie by the riverside in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. This is the first chance I've had to write in a while, so I will do my best to give a thorough update of my latest adventures.

I wrapped up my stay in Thailand with a mini vacation - a three day getaway in the area of Prachuap, right by the ocean. Jeab and I rode along with a couple of her friends for the first part of the 9 hr trip, after a lengthy car ride and two bus rides we were finally there. One of these bus rides involved a near death experience when a truck pulled out in front of our bus, and we swerved (nearly tipping) missing the end of a this truck by about 6 inches. My heart stopped, as everyone on the bus gasped in sync - the girl beside me even grabbed my arm, sure that she was about to die. I sat in terror for the remaining hour and half of the trip. It was quite traumatic, but I am alive and well. (I thank my lucky Buddha necklace). Jeab has friends in Prachuap, so for a fair price, we were able to rent their car to get around in for the few days we spent there. It worked out well and was extremely convenient for getting to some nearby sights. We pulled up the the "resort" and I must say, it was not quite what I was expecting; but palacial in comparison to other areas. It did have an ocean view, but the room did not resemble the pictures I had seen online. Overall, it worked out to be great mainly because there were no bugs or lizards in the room. I had been used to overheating at night as I hid under blankets from blood thirsty mosquitos, and being woken up occasionally by the loud croaks of lizards running around. The lemon grass incense proved to be somewhat effective, but the fan also blew the potent smell into my face which caused it to burn my eyes, and sting my nostrils (similar to the affects of the pollution in Bangkok). Additionally, my room had a large bed, and air conditioner. The room was frigid, and I didn't know how to change the settings, but I dealt with it. I turned on the TV figuring I would be watching some Thai drama before bed, and was surprised to find a channel playing "Three Men and a Baby", in English! (I hadn't seen, let alone watched English television in over 4 months) So I was pretty thrilled. The room wasn't exactly what I was hoping for, but said little pleasures added up to make it a great stay, and well worth the nine hour trip to get there.

The first day was spent at the beach where I roasted in the sun, splashed around in the ocean, and then laid around reading some Nietzsche. After lunch, the clouds rolled in and down came the rain. This was my only chance to get to the beach for the rest of our stay, but I wasn't too bothered by the crumby weather since we managed to find other ways to pass our time - including a pedicure (for $1.00 !). Later that day we decided to switch hotels, and landed ourselves at a lovely and brand new place. It was a major upgrade to say the least. The rooms were divded into individual cabins, pristine, and comfortable, with air conditioner, nice washrooms (showers with heated water) and a flat screen TV (the English channel was "Fashion TV"). The hotel was so nice that Jeab offered to stay an extra night, needless to say I graciously accepted. That night we met up with a few of her friends for drinks. The pub atmosphere was cool, and there was a live band that played some familiar hits in English. I could only handle one (giant) Heineken. Unable to indulge too much because I was exhausted, in pain (due to sun burn), and coming down with a cold. Though I was in no mood to party, I was happy to hangout with Jeab and her friends (she seems to know people all over the place; a popular lady).

The next morning, my illness was full blown, made obvious by a nasty cough. Jeab insisted that we go to the hospital first thing in the morning. I was hesitant at first, but it so happens that her friend is a nurse in Prachuap, and she promised it would be a quick visit. I knew she was concerned for me, so I agreed to get things checked out, afterall, it couldn't hurt. Sure enough, I left there with antibiotics intended to treat 'Acute Pharyngitis'. I gathered this was a repercussion of the filth, dust, and pollution of Thailand (in particular the frequent trips to Bangkok). I was a bit shocked to see that the hospital was so dirty, the floors were brown with grime. At least one hundred patients were waiting around to be seen (though due to my connections, I was seen right away, as promised). In the end, it was neat to have a 'Thai hospital' experience, and admittedly, I would not be bothered had I not been under the care of my pseudo mother, Jeab.
As for an update on my health status - the antibiotics have done absolutely nothing for me, and weeks later, I have the same cough. I think my body is just irritated in general and expect it will only subside once I get home.

Well, the weather was rainy so the morning was laid back. After paying a visit to the doctor, I ate and went back to our nice hotel for a nap. In spite of the weather that day, I was still keen on getting to the massive golden buddha overlooking the sea and the nearby Ban Krut temple (possibly the most extravagent temple I've ever laid eyes on). After the temple, Jeab took me to get my very first Thai massage; yet another experience in and of itself (one hour for just $7). In case you're wondering, it was a mixture of ticklish and excrutiating. One minute I would burst out laughing so hard I was crying, and the next...I was nearly crying due to pain. There were times when I thought she was trying to kill me via pressure points. I could have sworn I would exit that place in a wheelchair, but as it turned out I left feeling great (somewhat like a soft noodle). As for what I learned from this experience: a Thai massage is not for those with a low pain tolerance (nor for those whom have eaten just prior, or those looking for a relaxing massage) and secondly, I discovered that it is extremely difficult to pry ones muscles from their bones using bare hands (believe me, this lady tried her hardest). The verdict: a good experience, and it would be a crime to leave Thailand without having received the infamous Thai massage.

The next day involved more sleep and a six hour train ride back to Bangkok. One train, one van, and two cab rides later I was back at my Thailand 'home' in Chachoengsao. With so much more left to see, I decided it was time to move on to the next country; but before heading to Cambodia, I made sure I got my hands on a Vietnam visa (which would make my life much easier down the road). With Jeab's help I picked up my Vietnam visa within just a few hours of applying. Visa in hand, I was feeling eager to checkout Cambodia, I threw some plans together quickly - booked a flight to Cambodia to get there fast, and for $253 it was the most expensive one hour flight of my life. Jeab was extremely worried about me going to Cambodia alone (actually urging me not to go everytime I mentioned it), even her mother who would phone Jeab every once in a while to check on me (from Tokyo) would tell me that Cambodia is too dangerous to travel alone. Well, I had to make the call, and in fear that I would regret the decision not to go - I went. Jeab dropped me at the airport, and we said our goodbyes. It took a lot for me to hold back some tears. How do you thank someone who completely changed your life? Well, I bowed with the 'wai' (hands in prayer position) and said "kop khun ka" ('thank you' in Thai) and walked through the departure gates. I will never forget her. I don't think she will ever truly understand how much she'd done for me, and without any real means of returning the favour, I've decided that I will just have to 'pay it forward' and hope that one day I can do for someone what Jeab has done for me.

I can honestly say that I knew I was going to like Cambodia the minute I landed. Though the pickup by my guest house I had arranged via e-mail fell through, I was lucky enough to grab a free ride from a nice man I met at the airport. My plan was to spend a few days in Siem Reap, then head to Phnom Penh. The first night I spent hanging around my guest house since I was a bit scared to venture out alone. In the morning I walked around to find the Old Market, where I got my first taste of the haggling and bold, persistent sales attempts of the locals. I bought just a few things as I tried to get the hang of bargaining; since then I have more or less mastered it. Thankfully I met two nice girls from Singapore the next day, with whom I spent the next four days in Siem Reap. Siem Reap is absolutely gorgeous. A small province of Cambodia, which is the home of the lovely ruins of Angkor Wat and surrounding remains of temples. The girls (Layla & Fran) and I arranged to get our passes for Angkor Wat the next day. We decided on a one day pass (the alternatives being three day, or one week), but if purchased after 5pm, entrance to see the sunset is free (meaning you sort of get a day and a half). So we went to see the sunset the night before we would spend the next day getting around to most of the ruins. I must admit, the sunset wasn't overly impressive; just subpar. Not as bright or colourful as I was expecting - but pretty nonetheless. However, the 'real deal' was scheduled for 4am the next morning, when we would show up to get the best seats to view the sunrise behind Angkor Wat. (Approximately 300 tourists show up to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat every morning). Well, we were a bit too eager, and were certainly the first people there. That being said, we had our pick of the very best spot. In exchange for purchasing a coffee, we were set up with some chairs to sit and enjoy the sunrise. It was quite nice. We sat in the most popular place, across from a pond to see the reflection of Angkor in the water. I got to play with the settings on my camera, and believe that I captured some postcard worthy shots of the famous sunrise over Angkor Wat. Although it was no match for the sunrise from Mt.Fuji, it was still nice. Once the sun was up, it was time for a (very) long day of temple viewing. We roamed around the famous temples literally from dawn until dusk. The first thing we did after the sunrise was head over to the 'Angkor Balloon', to board a hot air balloon that rises over Angkor; the weather was too hazy to get a clear shot, but it was cool to have my very first hot air balloon experience. From checking out Angkor Wat we went to the gates of Angkor Thom, then Thet Bayon (and surrounds), and Ta Phrom - my favourite (where scenes from Indiana Jones and Tomb Raider were filmed), followed by Banteay Srei, Banteay Kdei, and Srah Srang (a lake which once served as the bathing place for royalty). After a full day of ruins, I don't think I would have been able to handle another minute of it. Don't get me wrong, they are extremely fascinating and lovely pieces of Cambodian history - but after a long day of seeing many of them, they start to look "same same, but different". The blazing sun and lack of shade are a lethal combination which made it a rather tiring experience. All that to say, if you're ever in the area - treat yourself to a stop in this wonderful country and don't miss out on Angkor Wat. Oh, and the sunrise is definitely worth waking up for!

On my third day in Siem Reap, the girls and I made yet another trip to the Old Market. I quickly watched and learned as these more experienced travelers bargained hard for paintings, clothes, and some beautiful sterling silver jewelery. Once I caught on, I scored myself some great deals, and couldn't stop. So if you ever get to the markets in Cambodia, consider yourself warned. Bargaining actually becomes a fun and playful interaction with the locals. Although there is no doubt that they would like to squeeze every last cent out of you, they are definitely some of the most smiley and friendly people. Once you get the hang of it, it becomes a game of the best deals you can get - and before you know it - you're broke. After the market we went to a popular bakery called "The Blue Pumpkin" - definitely a place to try if you ever get to Cambodia. Amazing. We made a few trips to this place over the few days we spent in Siem Reap. Near the 'Blue Pumpkin' was a spa with the "Dr. Fish Foot Massage" that I felt obligated to try. Three dollars for twenty minutes of my feet getting nibbled on by hungry fish, doing a decent job of removing my dead skin cells. The first few minutes was insanely ticklish, but once I got used to it, I sat there in awe of the 50 fish nibbling away at my feet. Then we cruised down to Pub St. (a popular area for tourists) and true to its name, it is full of pubs with the cheapest drinks you'll find (i.e. 50 cent beer etc.).

That night the girls discovered a new guest house just down the street, which was much better than the one we had been staying at. It was awesome. For just a few dollars more, there was a complimentary 20 minute massage, free bottled water daily, free tea and/or coffee and free bananas in the restaurant. The rooms were clean and decorative, and the wifi connection was much stronger in the rooms. It had a restaurant with great food and a nice garden surrounding the entrance with hammocks to kick back in. We spent the rest of our time here. This is where I discovered how delightful (and relaxing) a traditional Khmer massage is. An hour long massage was just $3, and so we had a couple of these during our stay. After waking up and receiving our massage, we searched for a mosque for Layla since it was the first day of Ramadan. Around the mosque we had an encounter with the most adorable children I have ever seen. We picked up some snacks for them and then sat to play around for a while, snapping their picture - they couldn't get enough of the attention. They loved seeing their image on the camera screen. These sweet children might have been between 3 and 6 years old, with wide brown eyes and the biggest smiles you'll ever see - I completely understood why Angelina Jolie chose to adopt. Cambodian children are a superhuman kind of cute, every single one of them; I wanted to just put them in my pocket and take them all home with me. Maybe next time...

After making a trip to the mosque we went to check out Wat Bo. It's a pretty small temple, with a really old feel to it, in contrast with some of the more polished temples I'd seen in Thailand. Later we gravitated back to the Old Market to engage in some more bargaining over jewelery. For dinner that evening Fran and I joined Layla and the small Muslim community for dinner at the mosque after dusk. We were welcomed and served by the head of the Muslim community in Siem Reap. They were extremely nice and very hospitable; there was something that really struck me about being invited to partake in a Muslim celebration, accepted as an equal, in spite of the obvious difference in religious beliefs. The food was good, and the experience was exceptional. This would be my last dinner with Layla and Fran before they would head back to Singapore. After dinner we made one last trip to our favourite place "The Blue Pumpkin" and went back to our guest house to nap and have our last Khmer massage before bed. Then we said our goodbyes and I was off to Phnom Penh the next morning.

Phnom Penh was an entirely new adventure that I will have to save for another blog...