Serendipity in a Small World

So much has happened since I last wrote. For starters, I am now in Thailand and have already been here for 6 days. With no real plans but to fill a backpack and travel around South East Asia starting with Thailand, fate certainly had some things in store for me. It all began with a rather serendipitous string of events, when my mom's colleague's sister who lives in Tokyo kindly allowed me to keep my luggage at her place as I traveled around for five weeks. When she noticed there was a gap between my move-out date and flight departure, she thoughtfully offered me a place to stay. Being on a tight budget, I took her up on this offer. Soon after I met her maid Khamun, who is Thai. When she heard of my plans to travel to Thailand alone, she insisted that I stay at her home in Chachoengsao where her daughter can look after me. Well, long story short, after an amazing couple of days spent with the Martins at their cottage in Shimoda, Japan, I was met at the airport by Jeab (Kamun's daughter) whom I have been living with for the past five days. And so my adventures in Thailand had begun...

To be frank, the transition from one of the world's most clean and safe countries (Japan) to the complete opposite end of the spectrum (Thailand) was not easy for me. This has been my first genuine taste of 'culture shock'. I am not sure what I was expecting exactly, but I felt overwhelmed by the filth and pollution. The 'dirty' streets of downtown Ottawa do not even compare to piles of trash, and the stench of polluted air. Japan was hot - Thailand is hotter. I've been sad to see so many hungry and diseased dogs and cats. When we arrived at Jeab's home, I was amazed at the size. I soon realized that the large size is because Thai people generally live with their entire family (great aunts and uncles included), the whole shabang. She showed me my room for the night, a small room with screening on the windows, and a screen door to keep the bugs out. I was quite relieved by this, since I had seen the largest bugs (beetles the size of my palm), and the most lizards I had ever seen in my life within the first ten minutes of my arrival.

I set my things down, and Jeab asked if I would like to take a bath. This sounded like a good idea. Well, the bath was a drainless tub of filthy water. For the first time in my life I think I came out of a bath more dirty than when I got in. I am not sure how long it had been sitting there, or how many people bathed in it before me but the thick layer of sludge sitting at the bottom indicated to me that the water wasn't so clean (it was black.) Without a shower, I used bowls that were set out, to dump this water all over my body and in my hair to bathe - stirring the scum that sat at the bottom of the tub. While the dirty bath water was quite disconcerting, I was more distracted by frantically looking around for creepy crawlies. After my bath, it was time for bed...I did not sleep a wink. Tossing and turning, listening to the loud croaking of lizards and scanning the dark room for various insects. Thankfully I was going to have an early start to my day to visit the local temple at 7am.

When I arrived, Jeab asked if I would like to go to a temple with her early in the morning. Jeab speaks very little English, just a few words here and there that I sometimes manage to piece together; otherwise we rely on a dictionary and Google Translator to communicate. Initially, it was my understanding that she would just show me the temple, where I would observe as a tourist. We arrived at the temple after picking up her son and her aunt, and I when we entered, I learned that I was not there to take pictures. Jeab handed me incense, a candle, and a flower, then she opened the dictionary and pointed at the words "follow" and "worship". I was honoured to be invited to pray with her and her family. I lit the candle and stood it with the rest, then I lit the insence and knelt down beside Jeab, following her actions. After she led me over to leave food out for the gods. Each bowl got a spoon full of steamed rice, and each cup got an ounce or so of water. I was amazed at how Thais of this strain of Buddhism go to such lengths to leave food for the spirits (steamed rice, fresh fruit, bottled water). It was after this first experience at the temple that I knew my stay in Thailand would be a valuable one; by living with a local, I was stepping beyond the restricted perspective of a tourist.

Jeab treats me like her own daughter. There are no words to describe this kind of hospitality; she goes above and beyond being a mere hostess. She bends over backwards for me regularly, doing anything and everything she can for me. Some of the only English she knows (and which I hear the most) are the words "You okay?" or "You happy?" - voicing her primary concerns. She has given me her own bed, insisting that she sleep on the couch; she brings me food when she can - she wants me to try everything (she won't let me just stick to eating Pad Thai); the front seat of the car is saved for me; when she takes me shopping she will make sure I do not get ripped off and bargains on my behalf; after I make a purchase she will carry the bags for me saying "I help you"...she even holds my hand when we cross the street. If there is anything I need or want done, she does her best to make sure it happens - and for all of this, she only asks that I pay for the gas in her car as she drives hours to get me where I want to go. I have never met someone so selfless. She welcomed me (a foreign stranger) into her home, and has allowed me these experiences that will, without a doubt, leave me a changed person.

In Chachoengsao (where I live with Jeab) I am, without exageration, the only white person in the area. While people in Japan used to look at me quite a bit, the attention was far different from that which I have been receiving in Thailand. Here, people point at me, not just children, but parents will point me out to their children. Unlike the more reserved and timid Japanese, Thai locals will blatantly stare at me - usually with a smile though. It is hard for me to discern whether they are mocking me or not. Even when sitting with Jeab and her friends, they make it obvious that they are talking about me by gesturing and pointing at me, occasionally laughing together, and I have not a clue what they are saying. After a few days, I became used to this more forward attention, sometimes I find it amusing; but it does keep me guessing at what people are thinking of me. When I think about it, I sort of miss speaking English to people; this is one difference of living as the only foreigner with locals in Thailand (as opposed to staying in a hostel with fellow backpackers). Many things took me a few days to adjust to, but one thing I continue to struggle with are the bug bites. I am having some rather interesting reactions to the mosquitos here - the mosquitos that ruthlessly continue to eat me alive. Some bites just swell a lot, others bruise, and the worst of them blister. It's no fun - but I consider it a sacrifice for precious time spent traveling in South East Asia.

On a brighter note, I will attempt to summarize some of the highlights of my recent adventures in Thailand:

Day 1: The temple at 7am.Klong Saun Old Market (where Jeab sells watches on weekends and holidays), first meal: Pad Thai (delicious!), seeing a boy and his elephant walking around a market near the temple, going to another temple that night to worship (it was a special holiday in Thailand - the full moon that marks the beginning of the rainy season). Worship involved the traditional lighting of the candle, and incense, carrying a flower and then doing three laps around the temple.

Day 2: Bangkok. Went to Wat Pho temple, and paid a visit to the sleeping Buddha. Did some shopping in the market (took my first ride in a tuk tuk to get there). Back to Chachoengsao for a Pad Thai dinner. Went back to Bangkok that night to accompany Jeab and her uncle as they looked for trees that were on sale (Jeab's uncle and grandmother sell trees in the market).

Day 3: Ayutthaya. My favourite part of Thailand so far. It's gorgeous. There is a lively feel to the area that surround the ancient ruins of Wat Chaiwatthanaram which I took a tour of via elephant (my first elephant ride). [Did I mention I have a new favourite animal?...] Elephants are perhaps the most adorable creatures in this world.

Day 4: Chonburi. A trip to the zoo! (Khao Kheow open zoo). The best part of that day was definitely sitting and holding hands with an orangutan! Not an animal unique to Thailand, but super cute nonetheless. After the zoo we drove down to the seaside where we just relaxed and ate dinner right by the ocean. Here, I indulged in my first Thai (foot and leg) massage; so good.

The last couple of days have involved relaxing, frequent trips to the mall/market, and of course - amazing (authentic) Thai meals; one of which we spent dining by the river. The sunset behind large fluffly clouds was extraordinary. Tomorrow Jeab and I leave for a lovely looking resort in Prachuap (aka. Beach lovers paradise). According to Jeab, the beaches are awesome, and less crowded since they aren't in a touristy area - should be relaxing. I figured if I am going to travel around Thailand, I might as well treat myself and get a taste of all aspects (the rougher spots, the touristy sights and the vacation getaway). Treating Jeab to a stay at this resort with me is truly the least I could do. Prachuap is roughly 8-9 hrs from Chachoengsao. While most of our time will be spent hanging out at the beach, we plan to take a detour on the way to checkout a palace and a nearby temple.

Once we return from our mini vacation, my priority will be getting my hands on a Vietnam visa (so I don't have to worry about tackling this myself from Cambodia), and then planning some of the details for my trip to Cambodia. Ideally I would like to spend a week there, but those plans are all still in the making. However, right now, I just need to concern myself with lounging on one of Thailand's most treasured beaches. Should be a treat.

There is still so much to see, and I will do my best to document my adventures! (Though it's hard to put a lot of these experiences into words). I must say, it is such an odd feeling to be loving every new experience and every minute of traveling these parts of the world, while at the same time, counting down the days until I return home. This must be taken as a testament to the old saying: "Home is where the heart is".

I miss everyone very much!
LOVE. comin' atcha from Thailand.
xoxo