Cambodia

Here I am snacking on some delicious apple pie by the riverside in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. This is the first chance I've had to write in a while, so I will do my best to give a thorough update of my latest adventures.

I wrapped up my stay in Thailand with a mini vacation - a three day getaway in the area of Prachuap, right by the ocean. Jeab and I rode along with a couple of her friends for the first part of the 9 hr trip, after a lengthy car ride and two bus rides we were finally there. One of these bus rides involved a near death experience when a truck pulled out in front of our bus, and we swerved (nearly tipping) missing the end of a this truck by about 6 inches. My heart stopped, as everyone on the bus gasped in sync - the girl beside me even grabbed my arm, sure that she was about to die. I sat in terror for the remaining hour and half of the trip. It was quite traumatic, but I am alive and well. (I thank my lucky Buddha necklace). Jeab has friends in Prachuap, so for a fair price, we were able to rent their car to get around in for the few days we spent there. It worked out well and was extremely convenient for getting to some nearby sights. We pulled up the the "resort" and I must say, it was not quite what I was expecting; but palacial in comparison to other areas. It did have an ocean view, but the room did not resemble the pictures I had seen online. Overall, it worked out to be great mainly because there were no bugs or lizards in the room. I had been used to overheating at night as I hid under blankets from blood thirsty mosquitos, and being woken up occasionally by the loud croaks of lizards running around. The lemon grass incense proved to be somewhat effective, but the fan also blew the potent smell into my face which caused it to burn my eyes, and sting my nostrils (similar to the affects of the pollution in Bangkok). Additionally, my room had a large bed, and air conditioner. The room was frigid, and I didn't know how to change the settings, but I dealt with it. I turned on the TV figuring I would be watching some Thai drama before bed, and was surprised to find a channel playing "Three Men and a Baby", in English! (I hadn't seen, let alone watched English television in over 4 months) So I was pretty thrilled. The room wasn't exactly what I was hoping for, but said little pleasures added up to make it a great stay, and well worth the nine hour trip to get there.

The first day was spent at the beach where I roasted in the sun, splashed around in the ocean, and then laid around reading some Nietzsche. After lunch, the clouds rolled in and down came the rain. This was my only chance to get to the beach for the rest of our stay, but I wasn't too bothered by the crumby weather since we managed to find other ways to pass our time - including a pedicure (for $1.00 !). Later that day we decided to switch hotels, and landed ourselves at a lovely and brand new place. It was a major upgrade to say the least. The rooms were divded into individual cabins, pristine, and comfortable, with air conditioner, nice washrooms (showers with heated water) and a flat screen TV (the English channel was "Fashion TV"). The hotel was so nice that Jeab offered to stay an extra night, needless to say I graciously accepted. That night we met up with a few of her friends for drinks. The pub atmosphere was cool, and there was a live band that played some familiar hits in English. I could only handle one (giant) Heineken. Unable to indulge too much because I was exhausted, in pain (due to sun burn), and coming down with a cold. Though I was in no mood to party, I was happy to hangout with Jeab and her friends (she seems to know people all over the place; a popular lady).

The next morning, my illness was full blown, made obvious by a nasty cough. Jeab insisted that we go to the hospital first thing in the morning. I was hesitant at first, but it so happens that her friend is a nurse in Prachuap, and she promised it would be a quick visit. I knew she was concerned for me, so I agreed to get things checked out, afterall, it couldn't hurt. Sure enough, I left there with antibiotics intended to treat 'Acute Pharyngitis'. I gathered this was a repercussion of the filth, dust, and pollution of Thailand (in particular the frequent trips to Bangkok). I was a bit shocked to see that the hospital was so dirty, the floors were brown with grime. At least one hundred patients were waiting around to be seen (though due to my connections, I was seen right away, as promised). In the end, it was neat to have a 'Thai hospital' experience, and admittedly, I would not be bothered had I not been under the care of my pseudo mother, Jeab.
As for an update on my health status - the antibiotics have done absolutely nothing for me, and weeks later, I have the same cough. I think my body is just irritated in general and expect it will only subside once I get home.

Well, the weather was rainy so the morning was laid back. After paying a visit to the doctor, I ate and went back to our nice hotel for a nap. In spite of the weather that day, I was still keen on getting to the massive golden buddha overlooking the sea and the nearby Ban Krut temple (possibly the most extravagent temple I've ever laid eyes on). After the temple, Jeab took me to get my very first Thai massage; yet another experience in and of itself (one hour for just $7). In case you're wondering, it was a mixture of ticklish and excrutiating. One minute I would burst out laughing so hard I was crying, and the next...I was nearly crying due to pain. There were times when I thought she was trying to kill me via pressure points. I could have sworn I would exit that place in a wheelchair, but as it turned out I left feeling great (somewhat like a soft noodle). As for what I learned from this experience: a Thai massage is not for those with a low pain tolerance (nor for those whom have eaten just prior, or those looking for a relaxing massage) and secondly, I discovered that it is extremely difficult to pry ones muscles from their bones using bare hands (believe me, this lady tried her hardest). The verdict: a good experience, and it would be a crime to leave Thailand without having received the infamous Thai massage.

The next day involved more sleep and a six hour train ride back to Bangkok. One train, one van, and two cab rides later I was back at my Thailand 'home' in Chachoengsao. With so much more left to see, I decided it was time to move on to the next country; but before heading to Cambodia, I made sure I got my hands on a Vietnam visa (which would make my life much easier down the road). With Jeab's help I picked up my Vietnam visa within just a few hours of applying. Visa in hand, I was feeling eager to checkout Cambodia, I threw some plans together quickly - booked a flight to Cambodia to get there fast, and for $253 it was the most expensive one hour flight of my life. Jeab was extremely worried about me going to Cambodia alone (actually urging me not to go everytime I mentioned it), even her mother who would phone Jeab every once in a while to check on me (from Tokyo) would tell me that Cambodia is too dangerous to travel alone. Well, I had to make the call, and in fear that I would regret the decision not to go - I went. Jeab dropped me at the airport, and we said our goodbyes. It took a lot for me to hold back some tears. How do you thank someone who completely changed your life? Well, I bowed with the 'wai' (hands in prayer position) and said "kop khun ka" ('thank you' in Thai) and walked through the departure gates. I will never forget her. I don't think she will ever truly understand how much she'd done for me, and without any real means of returning the favour, I've decided that I will just have to 'pay it forward' and hope that one day I can do for someone what Jeab has done for me.

I can honestly say that I knew I was going to like Cambodia the minute I landed. Though the pickup by my guest house I had arranged via e-mail fell through, I was lucky enough to grab a free ride from a nice man I met at the airport. My plan was to spend a few days in Siem Reap, then head to Phnom Penh. The first night I spent hanging around my guest house since I was a bit scared to venture out alone. In the morning I walked around to find the Old Market, where I got my first taste of the haggling and bold, persistent sales attempts of the locals. I bought just a few things as I tried to get the hang of bargaining; since then I have more or less mastered it. Thankfully I met two nice girls from Singapore the next day, with whom I spent the next four days in Siem Reap. Siem Reap is absolutely gorgeous. A small province of Cambodia, which is the home of the lovely ruins of Angkor Wat and surrounding remains of temples. The girls (Layla & Fran) and I arranged to get our passes for Angkor Wat the next day. We decided on a one day pass (the alternatives being three day, or one week), but if purchased after 5pm, entrance to see the sunset is free (meaning you sort of get a day and a half). So we went to see the sunset the night before we would spend the next day getting around to most of the ruins. I must admit, the sunset wasn't overly impressive; just subpar. Not as bright or colourful as I was expecting - but pretty nonetheless. However, the 'real deal' was scheduled for 4am the next morning, when we would show up to get the best seats to view the sunrise behind Angkor Wat. (Approximately 300 tourists show up to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat every morning). Well, we were a bit too eager, and were certainly the first people there. That being said, we had our pick of the very best spot. In exchange for purchasing a coffee, we were set up with some chairs to sit and enjoy the sunrise. It was quite nice. We sat in the most popular place, across from a pond to see the reflection of Angkor in the water. I got to play with the settings on my camera, and believe that I captured some postcard worthy shots of the famous sunrise over Angkor Wat. Although it was no match for the sunrise from Mt.Fuji, it was still nice. Once the sun was up, it was time for a (very) long day of temple viewing. We roamed around the famous temples literally from dawn until dusk. The first thing we did after the sunrise was head over to the 'Angkor Balloon', to board a hot air balloon that rises over Angkor; the weather was too hazy to get a clear shot, but it was cool to have my very first hot air balloon experience. From checking out Angkor Wat we went to the gates of Angkor Thom, then Thet Bayon (and surrounds), and Ta Phrom - my favourite (where scenes from Indiana Jones and Tomb Raider were filmed), followed by Banteay Srei, Banteay Kdei, and Srah Srang (a lake which once served as the bathing place for royalty). After a full day of ruins, I don't think I would have been able to handle another minute of it. Don't get me wrong, they are extremely fascinating and lovely pieces of Cambodian history - but after a long day of seeing many of them, they start to look "same same, but different". The blazing sun and lack of shade are a lethal combination which made it a rather tiring experience. All that to say, if you're ever in the area - treat yourself to a stop in this wonderful country and don't miss out on Angkor Wat. Oh, and the sunrise is definitely worth waking up for!

On my third day in Siem Reap, the girls and I made yet another trip to the Old Market. I quickly watched and learned as these more experienced travelers bargained hard for paintings, clothes, and some beautiful sterling silver jewelery. Once I caught on, I scored myself some great deals, and couldn't stop. So if you ever get to the markets in Cambodia, consider yourself warned. Bargaining actually becomes a fun and playful interaction with the locals. Although there is no doubt that they would like to squeeze every last cent out of you, they are definitely some of the most smiley and friendly people. Once you get the hang of it, it becomes a game of the best deals you can get - and before you know it - you're broke. After the market we went to a popular bakery called "The Blue Pumpkin" - definitely a place to try if you ever get to Cambodia. Amazing. We made a few trips to this place over the few days we spent in Siem Reap. Near the 'Blue Pumpkin' was a spa with the "Dr. Fish Foot Massage" that I felt obligated to try. Three dollars for twenty minutes of my feet getting nibbled on by hungry fish, doing a decent job of removing my dead skin cells. The first few minutes was insanely ticklish, but once I got used to it, I sat there in awe of the 50 fish nibbling away at my feet. Then we cruised down to Pub St. (a popular area for tourists) and true to its name, it is full of pubs with the cheapest drinks you'll find (i.e. 50 cent beer etc.).

That night the girls discovered a new guest house just down the street, which was much better than the one we had been staying at. It was awesome. For just a few dollars more, there was a complimentary 20 minute massage, free bottled water daily, free tea and/or coffee and free bananas in the restaurant. The rooms were clean and decorative, and the wifi connection was much stronger in the rooms. It had a restaurant with great food and a nice garden surrounding the entrance with hammocks to kick back in. We spent the rest of our time here. This is where I discovered how delightful (and relaxing) a traditional Khmer massage is. An hour long massage was just $3, and so we had a couple of these during our stay. After waking up and receiving our massage, we searched for a mosque for Layla since it was the first day of Ramadan. Around the mosque we had an encounter with the most adorable children I have ever seen. We picked up some snacks for them and then sat to play around for a while, snapping their picture - they couldn't get enough of the attention. They loved seeing their image on the camera screen. These sweet children might have been between 3 and 6 years old, with wide brown eyes and the biggest smiles you'll ever see - I completely understood why Angelina Jolie chose to adopt. Cambodian children are a superhuman kind of cute, every single one of them; I wanted to just put them in my pocket and take them all home with me. Maybe next time...

After making a trip to the mosque we went to check out Wat Bo. It's a pretty small temple, with a really old feel to it, in contrast with some of the more polished temples I'd seen in Thailand. Later we gravitated back to the Old Market to engage in some more bargaining over jewelery. For dinner that evening Fran and I joined Layla and the small Muslim community for dinner at the mosque after dusk. We were welcomed and served by the head of the Muslim community in Siem Reap. They were extremely nice and very hospitable; there was something that really struck me about being invited to partake in a Muslim celebration, accepted as an equal, in spite of the obvious difference in religious beliefs. The food was good, and the experience was exceptional. This would be my last dinner with Layla and Fran before they would head back to Singapore. After dinner we made one last trip to our favourite place "The Blue Pumpkin" and went back to our guest house to nap and have our last Khmer massage before bed. Then we said our goodbyes and I was off to Phnom Penh the next morning.

Phnom Penh was an entirely new adventure that I will have to save for another blog...

Serendipity in a Small World

So much has happened since I last wrote. For starters, I am now in Thailand and have already been here for 6 days. With no real plans but to fill a backpack and travel around South East Asia starting with Thailand, fate certainly had some things in store for me. It all began with a rather serendipitous string of events, when my mom's colleague's sister who lives in Tokyo kindly allowed me to keep my luggage at her place as I traveled around for five weeks. When she noticed there was a gap between my move-out date and flight departure, she thoughtfully offered me a place to stay. Being on a tight budget, I took her up on this offer. Soon after I met her maid Khamun, who is Thai. When she heard of my plans to travel to Thailand alone, she insisted that I stay at her home in Chachoengsao where her daughter can look after me. Well, long story short, after an amazing couple of days spent with the Martins at their cottage in Shimoda, Japan, I was met at the airport by Jeab (Kamun's daughter) whom I have been living with for the past five days. And so my adventures in Thailand had begun...

To be frank, the transition from one of the world's most clean and safe countries (Japan) to the complete opposite end of the spectrum (Thailand) was not easy for me. This has been my first genuine taste of 'culture shock'. I am not sure what I was expecting exactly, but I felt overwhelmed by the filth and pollution. The 'dirty' streets of downtown Ottawa do not even compare to piles of trash, and the stench of polluted air. Japan was hot - Thailand is hotter. I've been sad to see so many hungry and diseased dogs and cats. When we arrived at Jeab's home, I was amazed at the size. I soon realized that the large size is because Thai people generally live with their entire family (great aunts and uncles included), the whole shabang. She showed me my room for the night, a small room with screening on the windows, and a screen door to keep the bugs out. I was quite relieved by this, since I had seen the largest bugs (beetles the size of my palm), and the most lizards I had ever seen in my life within the first ten minutes of my arrival.

I set my things down, and Jeab asked if I would like to take a bath. This sounded like a good idea. Well, the bath was a drainless tub of filthy water. For the first time in my life I think I came out of a bath more dirty than when I got in. I am not sure how long it had been sitting there, or how many people bathed in it before me but the thick layer of sludge sitting at the bottom indicated to me that the water wasn't so clean (it was black.) Without a shower, I used bowls that were set out, to dump this water all over my body and in my hair to bathe - stirring the scum that sat at the bottom of the tub. While the dirty bath water was quite disconcerting, I was more distracted by frantically looking around for creepy crawlies. After my bath, it was time for bed...I did not sleep a wink. Tossing and turning, listening to the loud croaking of lizards and scanning the dark room for various insects. Thankfully I was going to have an early start to my day to visit the local temple at 7am.

When I arrived, Jeab asked if I would like to go to a temple with her early in the morning. Jeab speaks very little English, just a few words here and there that I sometimes manage to piece together; otherwise we rely on a dictionary and Google Translator to communicate. Initially, it was my understanding that she would just show me the temple, where I would observe as a tourist. We arrived at the temple after picking up her son and her aunt, and I when we entered, I learned that I was not there to take pictures. Jeab handed me incense, a candle, and a flower, then she opened the dictionary and pointed at the words "follow" and "worship". I was honoured to be invited to pray with her and her family. I lit the candle and stood it with the rest, then I lit the insence and knelt down beside Jeab, following her actions. After she led me over to leave food out for the gods. Each bowl got a spoon full of steamed rice, and each cup got an ounce or so of water. I was amazed at how Thais of this strain of Buddhism go to such lengths to leave food for the spirits (steamed rice, fresh fruit, bottled water). It was after this first experience at the temple that I knew my stay in Thailand would be a valuable one; by living with a local, I was stepping beyond the restricted perspective of a tourist.

Jeab treats me like her own daughter. There are no words to describe this kind of hospitality; she goes above and beyond being a mere hostess. She bends over backwards for me regularly, doing anything and everything she can for me. Some of the only English she knows (and which I hear the most) are the words "You okay?" or "You happy?" - voicing her primary concerns. She has given me her own bed, insisting that she sleep on the couch; she brings me food when she can - she wants me to try everything (she won't let me just stick to eating Pad Thai); the front seat of the car is saved for me; when she takes me shopping she will make sure I do not get ripped off and bargains on my behalf; after I make a purchase she will carry the bags for me saying "I help you"...she even holds my hand when we cross the street. If there is anything I need or want done, she does her best to make sure it happens - and for all of this, she only asks that I pay for the gas in her car as she drives hours to get me where I want to go. I have never met someone so selfless. She welcomed me (a foreign stranger) into her home, and has allowed me these experiences that will, without a doubt, leave me a changed person.

In Chachoengsao (where I live with Jeab) I am, without exageration, the only white person in the area. While people in Japan used to look at me quite a bit, the attention was far different from that which I have been receiving in Thailand. Here, people point at me, not just children, but parents will point me out to their children. Unlike the more reserved and timid Japanese, Thai locals will blatantly stare at me - usually with a smile though. It is hard for me to discern whether they are mocking me or not. Even when sitting with Jeab and her friends, they make it obvious that they are talking about me by gesturing and pointing at me, occasionally laughing together, and I have not a clue what they are saying. After a few days, I became used to this more forward attention, sometimes I find it amusing; but it does keep me guessing at what people are thinking of me. When I think about it, I sort of miss speaking English to people; this is one difference of living as the only foreigner with locals in Thailand (as opposed to staying in a hostel with fellow backpackers). Many things took me a few days to adjust to, but one thing I continue to struggle with are the bug bites. I am having some rather interesting reactions to the mosquitos here - the mosquitos that ruthlessly continue to eat me alive. Some bites just swell a lot, others bruise, and the worst of them blister. It's no fun - but I consider it a sacrifice for precious time spent traveling in South East Asia.

On a brighter note, I will attempt to summarize some of the highlights of my recent adventures in Thailand:

Day 1: The temple at 7am.Klong Saun Old Market (where Jeab sells watches on weekends and holidays), first meal: Pad Thai (delicious!), seeing a boy and his elephant walking around a market near the temple, going to another temple that night to worship (it was a special holiday in Thailand - the full moon that marks the beginning of the rainy season). Worship involved the traditional lighting of the candle, and incense, carrying a flower and then doing three laps around the temple.

Day 2: Bangkok. Went to Wat Pho temple, and paid a visit to the sleeping Buddha. Did some shopping in the market (took my first ride in a tuk tuk to get there). Back to Chachoengsao for a Pad Thai dinner. Went back to Bangkok that night to accompany Jeab and her uncle as they looked for trees that were on sale (Jeab's uncle and grandmother sell trees in the market).

Day 3: Ayutthaya. My favourite part of Thailand so far. It's gorgeous. There is a lively feel to the area that surround the ancient ruins of Wat Chaiwatthanaram which I took a tour of via elephant (my first elephant ride). [Did I mention I have a new favourite animal?...] Elephants are perhaps the most adorable creatures in this world.

Day 4: Chonburi. A trip to the zoo! (Khao Kheow open zoo). The best part of that day was definitely sitting and holding hands with an orangutan! Not an animal unique to Thailand, but super cute nonetheless. After the zoo we drove down to the seaside where we just relaxed and ate dinner right by the ocean. Here, I indulged in my first Thai (foot and leg) massage; so good.

The last couple of days have involved relaxing, frequent trips to the mall/market, and of course - amazing (authentic) Thai meals; one of which we spent dining by the river. The sunset behind large fluffly clouds was extraordinary. Tomorrow Jeab and I leave for a lovely looking resort in Prachuap (aka. Beach lovers paradise). According to Jeab, the beaches are awesome, and less crowded since they aren't in a touristy area - should be relaxing. I figured if I am going to travel around Thailand, I might as well treat myself and get a taste of all aspects (the rougher spots, the touristy sights and the vacation getaway). Treating Jeab to a stay at this resort with me is truly the least I could do. Prachuap is roughly 8-9 hrs from Chachoengsao. While most of our time will be spent hanging out at the beach, we plan to take a detour on the way to checkout a palace and a nearby temple.

Once we return from our mini vacation, my priority will be getting my hands on a Vietnam visa (so I don't have to worry about tackling this myself from Cambodia), and then planning some of the details for my trip to Cambodia. Ideally I would like to spend a week there, but those plans are all still in the making. However, right now, I just need to concern myself with lounging on one of Thailand's most treasured beaches. Should be a treat.

There is still so much to see, and I will do my best to document my adventures! (Though it's hard to put a lot of these experiences into words). I must say, it is such an odd feeling to be loving every new experience and every minute of traveling these parts of the world, while at the same time, counting down the days until I return home. This must be taken as a testament to the old saying: "Home is where the heart is".

I miss everyone very much!
LOVE. comin' atcha from Thailand.
xoxo